Grafting rosesis performed to obtain beautifully flowering plants, and at the same time resistant to diseases and unfavorable growing conditions. For this purpose, a beautifully flowering noble variety is grafted onto a resistant and reliable rootstock. Seehow and when to graft rosesso that the plants take root and bloom beautifully. Learn my way to successfullygrafting roses by buddingHere is a step-by-step instruction on how to graft roses!
Grafting roses allows you to get beautifully flowering and reliable plants
The reason whyis grafted on rosesis the fact that decorative noble varieties of garden roses are usually not frost resistant enough in our climatic conditions, they have too high requirements soil and are often attacked by diseases and pests.Therefore, in order to obtain a beautiful and reliable rose, in the conditions of amateur garden cultivation, it is worth to performgrafting of roses by budding , which consists in placing an eye (bud) of a noble variety (chosen for decorative reasons) on rootstock (as a rule, a seedling of a wild rose species - chosen for its viability and frost resistance). As a result of this treatment, we get a plant that combines the good features of both roses.
SeeHow to graft roses step by stepWe start with choosing the right rootstock.
In ourconditions, wild rose (rosa canina) or multi-flower rose (rosa multiflora) are most often used as rootstocks for grafted ornamental roses . Wild rose ensures the production of frost-resistant plants and therefore it is more popular in our climate - it is a universal rootstock, suitable for many varieties. However, its disadvantage is the formation of a large number of suckers.It is also practiced to obtain rootstocks from wild hedge roses - unfortunately, the quality of these rootstocks is often unreliable.
As a rule,rootstocks for grafting rosescannot be purchased in garden stores. They can be obtained faster directly from the nurserymen.
Wild rose (Rosa canina) can be used as a rose grafting pad
For rootstocks, choose well-developed plants , with straight and sufficiently thick leading shoots and a strong root system. Plant the rootstocks in the fall or spring in such a way that the root neck is slightly above the ground, and then root to cover the neck (this will keep the bark on the neck moist and soft). To facilitategrafting roses by budding , you can plant the rootstock at an angle of 45 °.
The correct date for inoculation of roses by buddingis the period from mid-July to the end of August.The timing of this treatment depends primarily on the condition of the rootstock and the maturity of the shoots intended for slips from which the eyes are taken. It is important that the rootstock tissues are fully active and that the bark comes off easily from the wood (which is why I recommended you to root the rootstock earlier). The formation of buds should be completed in the scions.
Note!Grafting roses by budding is best done on cool days with rainfall. If the period preceding inoculation is very dry, the rootstocks must be watered regularly and abundantly.
Before starting the inoculation of roses, preparea clean, well-sharpened knife with a pointed end (preferably a special knife for this purpose, the so-called goblet). Foil strips to wrap around the budding site and a piece of cloth will also be useful.
Oncuttings from the noble rose varietyget he althy, woody, flowering shoots about 30 cm long with four buds in the leaf axils.Remove the spines and leaves from them, leaving only the petioles, which need to be shortened to 2-3 cm. This will make it easier to slide the ophthalmic disc over the cortex of the pad without touching the wound with your fingers. Wrap the cut shoots in a wet cloth to protect them from drying out.
"Thenthe mound around the rootstockpush away and wipe the root collar with a cloth. After cleaning the neck, make a T-shaped incision in it (a horizontal cut of about half cm and a vertical cut of about 2 cm - photo 1). Be careful to cut only the bark and not damage the wood tissue. "
For the budding of roses, take the buds from the middle part of the shoot , which mature earlier. When removing the graft disc (i.e. a fragment of the bark with an eyelet), hold the scion with its tip facing you and cut the bud with a piece of bark and a thin layer of wood. Cut the shoot under the base of the bud, guiding the knife shallowly under the shield (the shield should be about 4 cm long - photo 2).
"The next step is to tilt the edges of the T-shaped bark of the rootstock with the blunt side of the knife (photo 3).Carefully insert the shieldinto the incision so that the bud points upwards (Fig. 4). Press the target lightly, cut off the fragment protruding beyond the notch (photo 5) and bind the budding site with a foil strip (photo 7). "
Grafting roses by budding
Grafting roses step by step:
"When grafting trees and shrubsthe most difficult moment is to properly prepare the rootstock and scions so that they join wellIt is difficult to properly trim the grafting surfaces. This activity takes a lot of time and requires experience. Usuallyyou need to get multiple vaccinations before finally getting into practice
However, this taskbecomes much easier if we use a special secateurs for vaccinationThanks to its use, the incision on the scion and rootstock will fit together perfectly. The pruning is also done very quickly, like a regular pruning shears. A special blade in the grafting pruner is responsible for shaping the trimmed surface.I highly recommend this device if you want to avoid failure in grafting plants!
Already about two to three weeks after the inoculation of the roses, you cancheck if the eye is seizedIf it is successful - the petiole will fall off when touched, and the disc will be green. In this case, the bud will swell quickly and the shoot will break out the next spring. When the shoot has grown, the rootstock above the scion is cut off. It may happen that the shoot needs a support - then tie it to the stake. Usually, however, it is not necessary.
"If it turns out that the roses have not been successfully vaccinated, do not be discouraged. It is quite a difficult procedure and requires some practice. When it succeeds, you can consider yourself an advanced gardener. Good luck!