Perennial gooseberry , otherwise also referred to as trunk grafted gooseberry, takes an attractive form that facilitates the care of the shrub and fruit collection. See whatcultivating a stump gooseberry on the plot , how to properly performstump grafted gooseberry cuttingand whichgooseberry varietiesare best to keep in cash. Here are all the care treatments to help you grow taller gooseberries and give you a bountiful harvest!
Moth gooseberry
Stalk gooseberry - cultivation
Growing stone gooseberriesis relatively simple as it is a shrub with low environmental requirements and high frost resistance. It thrives well on slightly acidic clay soils (pH 6.2-6.7). Due to frequent water shortages, it does not tolerate light soils.
A suitablesite for the cultivation of tall gooseberriesis a slightly shaded place (with a lot of diffused light). Avoid places with intense sunlight and near the walls of buildings that give off large amounts of heat. Too much sun exposure of the standing gooseberry bushes is associated with the risk of burning the fruit and leaves.
Before planting bushes, it is worth feeding the soil with organic fertilizers, such as compost or composted manure. It is also worth using mineral fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus.Stem gooseberry roots shallowly , therefore the fertilizer should be mixed shallowly with the top layer of soil.
Fertilization of stone gooseberriesshould be carried out in autumn in the following doses:
- compost or manure - 50 kg / 10m²
- mineral fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus - 0.5 kg / 10m²
For the next two years of cultivation, there is no need to re-supply the bushes. The regenerating root system will not have enough time to take up all the nutrients introduced by us to the soil. Next timewe fertilizegarden gooseberries only in the 3rd year of cultivation.
Grass gooseberry is best planted in the fall(late September and early October). This date will allow the roots to regenerate and strengthen the plant in winter, and will accelerate its development in spring. The bushes are planted at a depth of 15-20 cm. After planting, we tread the soil around the bush and then water it with plenty of water (about 1 bucket).
The spring date for planting the top gooseberrydoes not give as good results as the autumn planting. Shrubs planted in spring take on less well and have weaker growth. If we decide on this date, it is best to do it as soon as possible after the frost subsides.
Growing standing gooseberriesinvolves keeping the bushes under strong supports. They can be wooden or bamboo stakes driven into the ground and attached to the trunk with a wire.
Good to knowPlace the stakes supporting the tall gooseberry bushes in the ground before planting the bush. This way you will avoid the risk of damaging the plant's roots while driving the stake into the ground.
The presence of thorns may make it difficultcare treatments when growing tall gooseberriesFortunately, the higher position of the crown of the bush inoculated on the trunk makes it easier to carry out such treatments as weeding (easy access to the ground under the shrub), pruning and harvesting fruit (you do not have to bend down so much), or possible fight against diseases and pests.
The higher location of the crown prevents the shoots from contacting the ground, which may be filled with plant debris, which is the habitat of pathogens. As a result,ternary gooseberry is less susceptible to diseasethan bush-grown gooseberry.The most dangerous gooseberry diseases include the American gooseberry mildew and currant leaf anthracnose.
Mill gooseberry - cut
The bestcut date for standing gooseberriesis early spring (March), even before vegetation starts. Failure to do so results in a weaker growth of the bush and a reduction in the growth of young shoots, which in turn results in weaker fruiting. Young shoots (1-4 years old) bear the best fruit in the case of gooseberries. 5-year-old and older shoots bear less fruit and therefore should be removed.
We cut the standing gooseberrywith a small hand pruner. We pay attention to the even distribution of shoots in the crown to ensure the best possible lighting.
Cutting of the standing gooseberries in the first year of cultivationis based on a strong shortening of all shoots (by 3-4 eyes). This is to stimulate the plant to more vigorously grow young, stronger shoots and better branching of the crown.In the following years, corrective cuts are made, during which weak, damaged and threadlike shoots are systematically removed.
After 4-5 years of cultivation, arejuvenating gooseberry cutis carried out, removing all old shoots.
Main gooseberry - varieties
The gooseberry varieties selected for stem cultivationare characterized by a loose, spreading crown habit. The shoots of these varieties fall freely, giving the shrubs an attractive appearance, facilitating harvesting and care. All gooseberry varieties available on the Polish market are frost-resistant.Main gooseberry varietiesgrow well with the rootstock and are resistant to diseases.
Invicta- English early variety with large, sweet, green-yellow fruits. It is characterized by vigorous growth, a loose, spherical shape of the crown and high fertility. Its most important feature is low susceptibility to the most important diseases (American gooseberry mildew and anthracnose).This variety is very easy to grow, undemanding and therefore especially recommended for home gardens and allotments.
Niesłuchowski- an early variety from Ukraine. Violet fruits have a thin skin, they are very tasty and decorative. Very fertile and disease resistant variety.
Hinnonmaki Rot- one of the best varieties of gooseberries bred in Finland, with small red fruits. It is a late variety, bearing very sweet fruit, also suitable for preserves. Recommended for amateur cultivation.
Pax- this is a thornless, medium-early variety bred in England. The fruits are large, red with a slightly elongated shape. Although it is not as fertile as the varieties described above, it is recommended for its tasty, dessert fruit. Resistant to mildew and anthracnose.
MSc Eng. Agnieszka Lach
