Most species of shrubs can be propagated on their own without any major problems. There are different methods, the easiest and most effective is vegetative reproduction. Deciduous shrubs are most often propagated by cuttings and layering.
Contents:
- herbaceous seedlings
- semi-woody cuttings
- Woody cuttings
- Layouts
herbaceous seedlings
We start preparing herbaceous seedlings in May (ornamental currant, dry trees, euonymus) and continue harvesting them until the beginning of June (barberry, forsythia, cotoneaster, wucca, rhododendron, tavulas, heathers).
The seedlings are obtained from the newly produced shoots of this year, before they even start to become lignified. We collect fragments from the length of about 10 cm with 3-5 pairs of leaves. The large leaves are shortened by half to reduce water evaporation, and the lower leaves are removed. We can dip the tip of the seedling in the rooting agent. Place the prepared seedlings in boxes or pots filled with a mixture of peat and sand in a 1: 1 ratio. Cover the containers with foil or glass and place them in a bright place. We water and air the seedlings regularly.Plants should take 6-8 weeks to take root after planting. Usually new plants are not planted in the ground until spring.
semi-woody cuttings
This method is used to reproduce species such as forsythia, laurel, barberry, hydrangea, mahogany or evergreen boxwood.
We start preparing seedlings from mid-July to the end of September. The shoots collected in spring, preferably annuals, are cut into 10-15 cm sections, each of which should have at least 2 pairs of buds. The tops of the shoots are the best and we should use them to prepare cuttings. Some species are best propagated by half-heeled cuttings with a heel, i.e. a fragment of the old shoot.
Tear off the lower leaves and dip the tip of the cuttings in the rooting agent (optional).
Seedlings are placed 3-4 cm deep in boxes or pots filled with a mixture of peat and sand (1: 1 or 1: 2) or peat, coarse sand and perlite (1: 1: 1).We cover the containers with foil or glass, so that the air temperature is 15-24 ° C. We need to fertilize the seedlings regularly, foliar feed and ventilate them. Plants take a few weeks to take root depending on the species.
Woody cuttings
This is one of the basic and easiest ways to reproduce many shrubs, e.g. dogwood and white dogwood, jasmine, Japanese viburnum, Siberian carrageenan or miracle shrub.
One-year woody shoots from which we will prepare cuttings are collected from November to mid-February. Place the shoots tied in bunches in a cool room, e.g. a cellar and protect them from drying out.
We can start preparing seedlings from species whose buds swell early in spring (honeysuckles, hydrangeas, dry trees, willows, poplars, lilacs). Then, before the end of the year, we prepare seedlings of species whose shoots do not fully wood before winter, e.g.from Dawid's budlei or ground cover rose varieties.
Pencil-thick or thinner shoots are cut into 15 cm sections, each of which should have 3 pairs of buds. Make a slightly oblique upper cut above the bud, and the lower one, perpendicular to the shoot, below the bud. Dip the tip of the seedling into the rooting agent. The prepared seedlings are placed vertically in boxes filled with sand and stored in a cold cellar at a temperature of about 0-1 ° C. In the spring of the next year, we plant the plants in pots or permanently.
Layouts
This method of reproduction is based on rooting young, flexible shoots that are still attached to the mother plant. Cut off the seedling only after it has taken root. We prepare lay-ups in spring or autumn.
The easiest way to get new plants is to multiply them withhorizontal layers .
In spring, we choose a he althy, one-year-old shoot (for azaleas and rhododendrons 2-3 years old), which grows low above the ground.Bend it and place it on the bottom of the previously dug, shallow groove, and then fix it to the ground with a bent wire. Cover the shoot with soil so that the top of the shoot protrudes above its surface. The momentum can be tied to a stake.
We water the plant regularly throughout the season. In autumn, remove the mound and if the roots on the shoot are numerous and long - cut it off from the plant and plant it in a new place. If the shoot has become poorly rooted, leave it and cut it off until the next fall.
Azaleas, hydrangeas, cotoneaster, jasmine, viburnum, lilacs, magnolias, olives, holly, shrub peonies, quince, tavulas and veins, lavender can be propagated before the horizontal deposition.
Simple laydownsconsist in bending the shoot at a height of about 25 cm from the top and fixing it in the hole so that it touches the ground. After a year, a new seedling can be cut off. This method is used to reproduce shrubs with raised and rather stiff shoots, e.g.shrubs, jasmine, viburnum or varicose veins.
Repeated laydownsarrange the shoot in a wavy hollow so that the buds are both in the ground and at the tops of the arches. Roots form on the sections immersed in the ground, and shoots grow on the surface. In this way, we can reproduce species with long and flexible shoots, e.g. actinidia, honeysuckle, wisteria or arboriculture.
Read also:
September in the orchard and vegetable garden
Autumn garden tasks
