Cherry pruningis an important procedure, influencing the proper development of the tree, shaping its crown and, consequently, the ability to bear abundant fruiting for many years. Unfortunately, many people prune cherries at the wrong time and in the wrong way. So seewhen to prune cherriesand what method of pruning is best for these trees.How to prune young cherries , and as already fruiting? What does a rejuvenating cutlook like old cherries cut ? How to makesummer cherry cutting ?
Cherry pruning is important for maintaining the tree's habit and abundant fruiting
Young, newly planted cherries are cut in spring, immediately after planting, to form their crowns. For older trees, the basiccherry cutting dateis summer, after fruit harvest (usually it is the end of July or the first half of August). Then the wounds after cutting cherries heal faster and there is a lower risk of infection of the bark and wood by fungi and bacteria.Summer cherry cuttingusually brings better results than spring cutting. It is therefore the opposite of, for example, pear and apple trees, which are pruned mainly in early spring or even at the end of winter.
Cherry pruningshould always be done in good weather , on dry and sunny days. Then there is the lowest risk of transmitting fungal diseases, the spread of which is favored by moisture and rain.
Note!Immediately after cutting the cherry, the wounds on the branches should be covered with garden ointment or emulsion paint with the addition of a fungicide.Due to the fact that cherry wood and bark are easily infested by both fungi and bacteria causing bacterial carcinoma of fruit trees, the bactericidal preparation Miedzian 50 WP is recommended as an addition to the emulsion.
Young cherries are cut very strongly after planting, because they usually have too many shoots, and they sprout at a sharp angle upwards. Even though not cut, they will bear fruit sometimes in the first year after planting, but they will quickly become too dense, the branches growing strongly upwards will be prone to breaking in the future under the weight of the fruit and there will be no clear conductor, which will make further formation of the cherry crown difficult
Starting withcutting the cherry after planting , choose the stem that will guide you (usually the thickest and tallest twig in the center of the crown, growing almost vertically upwards, dominating over the side shoots). This shoot is not pruned at all, as it often ends with a valuable leaf bud.The remaining side branches are cut very short, leaving only 1-3 buds from their base. Next spring, shoots will grow out of the left pegs next spring at a horizontal and slightly oblique angle.Completely remove all shoots growing up to 40 cm above the ground, because these branches would be too low.
For the next 4 yearsthe pruning of young cherriesshould be very moderate so as to only slightly overexpose the crown of the tree and prevent it from becoming too dense. For this purpose, after harvesting the fruit, old branches are cut and young shoots hanging down to the ground, lying down, pointing towards the center of the crown, growing too much upwards and competing with the guide, damaged or with symptoms of disease. On average, to havesufficiently shine through the crown ofcherry trees, approximately 1/5 of all shoots should be cut. Sometimes, when the tree grows excessively upwards, it is also worth cutting the top so that in the following years it is still possible to harvest the highest-growing fruits.
Pruning older cherriesthat are already 5 years old after planting should be more intense. In such trees it is necessaryto rejuvenate the cherry tree , because cherries bear fruit best on the youngest branches (annual and biennial). It is therefore about shortening the oldest branches and encouraging the tree to produce a large number of new shoots. For this purpose, the old branches are shortened by about 1 - 1.5 m. We shorten only some of them so as not to weaken the fruiting of the cherries. We will trim the remaining old branches in a year.
" Cutting old cherriesthat have a guide also requires a restoration cut every few years. It is about the complete cutting of old branches that have exceeded the age of 4, so that only young branches and annual shoots are left. In this case, the guide remains intact and the branches are replaced with new ones. Old shoots are cut a few centimeters from the guide.New, young shoots will grow from the pegs left behind. "
If you are unsure how to make a cut or are just afraid to do it, the fantastic book "Cutting School 2" ontrimming fruit trees and shrubs
This is the second part of the best-selling book "Cutting School", in which the authors Lucyna and Alicja Grabowskieexplained in a simple and clear way the secrets of cuttingornamental plants. The first book The School of Cutting for its simple language and clear, accurate drawings was loved by garden owners all over Poland.The book quickly became a bestseller- 20,000 copies sold! "
"Cutting School 2" will make youconfident in pruning fruit trees and shrubsand learn to cut plants so that they grow according to your expectations and bear fruit abundantly. After reading this book, your approach to pruning plants will probably change completely!