Green jointscan be created by filling the spaces between the paving stones with fertile ground, resulting inmoss between the paving stones(in shady places ) orgrass between the paving stones(in the sun). What plants can we still count on? Is it worth sowing these places? How big should the spaces between the paving stones be? Seehow to lay paving stones to create natural green joints
Green joints, i.e. moss or grass between the paving stones
When are green joints a good solution?
The easiest wayto combine paving stones with greeneryare openwork elements. This is fantastic, but sometimes it may not be enough. If only because the offer of openwork cubes is definitely slimmer than traditional cubes or terrace tiles. It also happens that we simply do not want to introduce another material into the garden that does not match the overall aesthetic concept. There can be many reasons, but all of them can be summed up with one question - how to introduce greenery into a paved surface without using openwork products?
In this case, the best solution seems to begreen jointsA great solution is to make a little wider spaces between the stones when paving stones, and then fill them with a grout, the role of which will be performed by humus or compost mixed with sand. The width of such a green joint should be selected depending on the size of the surface elements.1 cm wide joints are optimal for typical paving stones, 2-3 cm for larger elements and terrace tiles.
You can also use much wider joints (while spaces comparable to the width of the cube can still be called a joint), in this case, however, it is worth considering fixing each element separately on a cement base. However, the larger the spaces between the pavement elements, the less comfortable it will be to use such a path in the garden. What is most acceptable during a quiet walk around the garden may turn out to be irritating during the daily walks from the door to the wicket.So it is worth first to think carefully how intensively and how the individual accesses will be used and rather not to decide for elements that are too openwork on the entire surface, which will be intensively used. It should also be remembered that by using such solutions, we significantly increase the infiltration of rainwater into the layers of ballast and foundation.Therefore, it is very important to use a geotextile, which will prevent the washing out of the aggregate from under the cube and the related damage to the surface. The remaining elements of the pavement structure remain as in traditional paths. So we start with trimming, then the appropriate thickness of the foundation, geotextile and sand bedding. However, such solutions should rather be avoided on driveways and surfaces exposed to greater loads. In these cases, however, openwork paving will be irreplaceable.
Sidewalk with green joints - the easiest way to introduce greenery into the paved surface. Traditionally, we start with trimming (1), then lay the curb (2), make the foundation (3), lay the geotextile (4) and sand bedding (5). On top of this, paving stones are arranged with three-centimeter gaps, e.g. Santorini (6). The joints filled with humus slowly begin to turn green, creating an excellent effect (7-9).
How to green the spaces between the paving stones?
When we fill the spaces between the paving stones with fertile ground, the question remainswhat to fill the green joints with ? The simplest answer is: nothing. Let's wait. The joints will turn green very quickly. They will germinate seeds and spores brought by the wind. This is a good solution that we can be sure that the most resistant plants will settle in our pavement. What can we count on? What if the sidewalk runs through a shaded area?moss will appear between the paving stones , headed by the most resistant and very attractive moisture-measuring coil. We cannot count on it in sunny places, but there will most likely appeargrass between the paving stones , but also goby plants or (especially desirable) daisies.
The second version issowing green joints by yourselfThis will give you full control over their final appearance.Most often, in this case, different types of grass are used (you should choose those that can withstand trampling). An alternative is a roll out lawn. The rolled grass should be cut into narrow strips and carefully adjusted to the space between the pavement elements. In this case, however, you need to remember about careful care, which will allow for good rooting in not very large spaces.
Some path elements replaced with grass. The spaces created in this way can be treated as a kind of small pots and planted with various plants. Can the amount of green spaces increase as the path moves away from the house? this way we will get the effect of cobblestones slowly getting lost in the grass. The layers and sequence of construction do not differ from the traditional pavement (1), but it is worth remembering about the geotextile (2). In the picture there is a Kreta paving stone (3). Trapezoidal elements perfectly wedge one another.Some spaces are left free (4), then filled with humus and sown or planted with plants (5-6).
Single paving stones replaced with grass
Green jointsis one solution. However, it is not the only one. Removing some surface elements and replacing them with grass can also have an excellent effect. Are non-rectangular cubes particularly well suited for this purpose? such as, for example, Crete and Piazza produced by Buszrem. The trapezoidal shape of the elements will ensure their better wedging together, so replacing some of them with green will weaken the entire surface to a much lesser extent. This is especially important if we want to diversify driveways or other surfaces exposed to high loads in this way. In the case of sidewalks, it does not matter that much.
The group of plants that can grow in such arrangedgreen sidewalksis very large and it is impossible to list all of them. However, it is worth getting acquainted with particularly attractive possibilities.Apart from the obviously imposing grass, it can be, for example, a beautifully flowering and very resistant to trampling and weather conditions, an acute sedum plant that grows well in sunny places and tolerates trampling equally well. In similar conditions, saxifrage or evergreen and beautifully flowering phlox also do well. A very attractive scented violet (also very resistant to contact with soles) is perfect for shaded paths.
Version with the highest proportion of green, i.e. a transition from loosely arranged panels. In this case, there is no common substructure, each slab is seated separately on a foundation made of sand stabilized with cement.
1. Native soil; 2. Sand and cement foundation; 3. Cobblestone (in this case Santorini cube); 4. Appropriate gaps between the plates ensure the convenience of use; 5. Arranging the plates in three lines ensures a stable positioning of the feet.
Slabs or cubes loosely placed in the grass
However, you can go even further and make passages in the form of loosely laid plates. For such a solution to be convenient, remember to place them at appropriate distances similar to the length of a human stride. On average it is around 62? 65cm. We set them on a five-centimeter layer of sand stabilized with cement. Large elements that can easily fit the entire foot are perfect for this purpose. For example, Blues or Etno terrace tiles will be great, but also all other appropriate sizes. It is worth remembering that if we want to place them in one line - it is good to choose wider elements, for example wet cast sandstone 30x60cm. If we use square tiles, for ergonomic reasons it is worth arranging them in a staggered manner in a way that corresponds to the natural rhythm of human steps. Arranging such boards in a straight line will force the users of the passage to walk resembling a walk on a rope, with their feet placed one in front of the other? which is not very convenient in the long run.
