Ways to cut the most popular shrubs

Cutting trees and shrubs requires practice, but it is not so difficult that someone untrained in caring for it will not be able to cope with itplants woody . First of all, we need to knowwhat the cut is forand how the plant tolerates this procedure.

Cutting only makes sense if we want to achieve at least one of the following goals:

1. correctingform height ;

2. gettingbetter yielding ;

3.rejuvenationoldshrubs ;

4.forming plantings(e.g. hedges) or single solitary specimens.

Cuttingrule specific rules , and the basic rule is: always cut justover the budordirectlyonfork shootsThanks to this, there are no short, dying stumps on the bushes, which are not onlydisfigure plants , but also worsen theirvitalityThe way of cutting essentially affects the growth strength of new shoots. After a strong pruning, the few remaining buds on the plant will develop withinone season extremelylong shoots, after weak pruning on bushesarise short shootsCut shoots do not grow back, but the energy they used to grow, is separated andpassedtoother shoot

Lavender - straight cut with secateurs

Pruning of shrubs, which include:inlavender , it is very simple and should not be difficult even forbeginners gardenersPruning is carried out in February, during the treatment removes all flower shoots from the previous year along withleafy tipsAs the buds are densely arranged, the cut does not have to be very precise. For cutting, you can usestandard secateursintended forcutting hedgesThe shrubs should not be pruned too much, as non-leafy woody shoots will not break out.

Some experts advise that lavender should be shortened immediately after flowering so that the plantsnot form seeds, and the energy saved in this way was consumed byluxuriant branchingCutting must be weak and limited toremoval faded of inflorescences

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Dziko growing lavender (Photo: Fotolia.com)

Budleja - strong cut of all shoots

If we trim the bud in late spring, the bushes will start to grow very luxuriantly, sproutinglot new ,longshoots , at their endsdense inflorescences.Unfortunately, cutting has one drawback .Well, as a result ofpruning shootsflowering only takes place in late summer. This problem can be partially resolved by possiblyearly cutting ; in favorable weather, you can reach for the secateurs at the beginningFebruary.All the flowering shoots from the previous year should be cut short enough to leave only two buds below thecut

Weak shoots should beremoved completely , because after pruning the remaining buds will start to emerge from eachold rush bang two newThanks ago, the number of young shoots will double each year. This of course obliges us toregular trimming of the crownotherwise it will be very dense, and that with in turn, it has a negative impact on the size of flowers (the more shoots, the lessnutrientsreaches individual flowers).

If we do not want budleja to grow in width, we should remove those shoots that fall to the sides. Then in theof the middle part of the crownwe can leave moreshoots floralAfter the plant has flowered at the end of summer, you canremove browned inflorescences

Garden hydrangea - removing only frozen shoots

If we take a closer look at the center of the green hydrangea buds in the spring, we will certainly see in themminiature seeds flowersFlowers begin to form already in the previous year, so cutting the shoots in spring would mean theirirretrievable lossTherefore, when cutting at the end of February, only frozen shoots and old faded inflorescences are removed. After a verystrong pruning shrubsshow increased development, nevertheless createall leafyshoots with a negligiblenumber flowers

We perform this pruning only when we want to rejuvenateold shrubOnly old shoots are shortened, and last year's onesleaves uncutThe exception is the new variety 'Endless Summer', whichblooms luxurianteven after radical shortening of the shoots just abovesurface of the ground

Part two of the article