Summer is already entering the finalphase, but there is no less work in the garden at all. The harvest of the late vegetables and fruits has just begun; exceptapples ,pears ,blackberries ,cabbage ,beansthe last cobs are also ripeningsweet cornStill ripeningceleryandpumpkin , which is rapidly gaining weight. The potatoes should be dug up as soon as the leaves turn brown.
This year's summer was record-breaking in places, such high temperatures have not been recorded in 50 years! The drought causedhuge lossesin agriculture, but whoever watered the gardenregularlyandabundantly,can count on a decent yield .Greenhouse tomato cultivation will be possible for a long time. Under the glass,peppers, cucumbers ,zucchini, eggplant,jak imelon .The turning point will be the end of September.
The flowering of some species of annual plants can be accelerated by sowing seedsin the fall of the previous year,i.e. at the turn of September andOctober.Plants sprout and they emerge in the sowing year and overwinter in the seedling stage. Ground cover seedsseaside smagliczkiLobularia maritima andshield dressIberis umbellata can be sown between tulip bulbs ornarcissusright after planting them. Sown in this way, they will bloom in May and will shortly cover the gaps between the ending floweringbulbs.
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Eschscholzia californica (Photo: Fotolia.com) |
Flowering acceleration by about 2 weeks can also be achieved withCalifornian flourEschscholzia californica orpurple wolfI pomea purpurea. It is also worth paying attention to the little-known plants, such asphacelia campanulariaPhacelia campanularia orkamisoniasnake Camissonia bistorta, which, sown in autumn, will also give you a beautiful early flowering - phacelia will bloom in the first halfMay,and yellow kamisonia flowers will appear inJune.
At the end of summer, many plants onbalconies, terracesandverandaslose their decorative qualities. Others, although they are still blooming profusely, will soon not look so attractive.So maybe it is worth changing the decor of these places to relax surrounded by other beautiful plants also in autumn. Autumn decoration can be made of seasonal, freshly planted or permanent plants, i.e. perennials andshrubsandshrubs,or mixed:seasonaland permanent (then every year such a box or pot will be able to look different). Autumn compositions withperennialplantsornamentalcan be prepared much earlier. Wellplants cared forwill stay in the same container for many years.
The list of plants offered by nurserymen is now long, so you can choose and create various compositions, e.g. in the Far East, Mediterranean or country style, depending on your preferences. The selection of plants, especiallydeciduous and coniferous shrubsandperennials,should be carefully considered.Chooseformsdwarf forms, characterized by poor growth, compact root system, temporaryfloodingoroverdrying.You should also pay attention to the requirements of plants, especially their light requirements.
September is also the planting month of some ornamental, always greenboth coniferous shrubs,anddeciduous,likeFortune 'a , eastern laurel,barberry, junipers,thuja,cypresses, yews.Bushes keep their leaves all year round, evaporate water during winter. In September, they are already finishing their growth and entering the resting phase. Planted on this date, they will have time to root in a permanent place, which will make it easier for themto hibernate.They consumewater even in winter , if the ground is not frozen. These bushes should be planted in a quiet place that will protect them from the drying effects of the wind during cold winter days.
On sunny days after planting, shade them before intense exposure to the sunorganic fertilizersandmineraland digging deep into the substrate. After planting, the plants should be well watered and the soil mulched with bark or sawdust.
The disease is caused by the fungus Venturia inaequalis. Symptoms of scab can be found on leaves andfruits, less oftenon shoots. From around mid-May, the leaves of apple trees appearvelvety, olive green,then darkening spots of various sizes, from a few to several mm in diameter. Heavily infested leaves wilt,dry upandfall off.Then spots appear on the fruit. They are velvety at first, but as the plant defends itself, a layerof cork tissue is formed at the site of damage,visible as black, dry scabs.The fruit often breaks at the site of the scabs. On ripe fruit, including those in storage, round,small, olive-gray spots may develop.The disease develops best in the summerwarmandhumid.Optimal conditions for the development of the disease are 17-24ºC and continuous, not too heavy rainfall lasting more than 9-18 hours.
The disease can be prevented by careful tree care andpruning the crown.After harvesting the fruit, spray the leaves with a 5% urea solution(nitrogen fertilizer). This will cause the leaves, in which the fungus hibernates, to decompose faster. If we did not manage to spray, we have to collect all the fallen leaves and then burn them. The use of chemical pesticides inplotsandhome gardensis not recommended.