Raspberry propagation by suckers, stems and root suckers

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Breeding raspberriesin your own garden is not only possible but even quite easy. The most popular are 3ways to reproduce raspberries- by suckers, stems (woody cuttings) and root cuttings. See which of these methods is worth choosing and how to do all the steps in order to get he althy and he althyraspberry seedlings !


Raspberry propagation
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The raspberry (Rubus idaeus) is a perennial plant and, like other berry bushes, it is multiplied mainly by root suckers. Raspberry seedlings are planted in early spring or late autumn , before the onset of frosts. The autumn planting period is more favorable for the plants due to the high moisture content of the soil at this time. However, we must remember to protect young plants against frost.

Raspberry propagation by root suckers

It'sthe easiest way to reproduce raspberries , because their root system creates suckers that we can use to obtain seedlings. To take a seedling, stick a shovel between the mother plant and the regrowth in such a way as to cut the connecting root. Suckers should only be taken from he althy plants.Raspberry root suckers are collected in autumn- at the end of September and October. We can plant them immediately in a permanent place or on a seedbed. The seedlings must have one shoot with a thickness of at least 5-7 millimeters, a length of about 30 centimeters, and developed roots so that they can properly assume the new position.It is also good if you can see the buds from which new shoots will grow. When planting in the fall, remember to trim the seedling 20-30 cm above the ground.


Raspberry seedlings from shtobers
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Raspberry propagation by cuttings (woody cuttings)

We also start reproducing with this method at the beginning of October.To obtain the stems, cut the woody, one-year-old raspberry shoots into 15-18 cm sections , each of which should have at least one well-developed bud. The top cut should be made just above the bud and at an angle. The bottom section of the seedling is best trimmed just below the bud, perpendicular to the shoot. For woody cuttings, choosefragments of raspberry shoots with a diameter of a pencil or only slightly thinnerand discard those that are too thin or not yet lignified.

Good to knowRaspberry cuttings made from the lowest part of the shoot on the plant have the best rooting, because most natural growth regulators accumulate at the base of the annual growth.

The sticks obtained from raspberries are kept in moist sand during the winter , placed in a cool room, for example in a cellar at a temperature of about 1-2 ° C, and planted in the spring. We can also plant them immediately in autumn on the seedbed or directly into the ground. However, we must do it as early as possible so that the newly created root system has time to regenerate before the winter temperature drops.

There are several important aspects to consider when multiplying raspberries by shtobers . Well, the adventitious bud must protrude above the ground, which should be pressed during planting. If the soil is not compacted enough, water from the deeper layers of the soil will not be able to penetrate into the upper layers, which can cause the seedlings to wither and fall out. To maintainoptimal soil moisture for raspberry seedlingsit is recommended to mulch it. Good for this purpose are: shredded pine bark, sawdust of coniferous trees or shavings.


Digging up raspberries in order to divide them
Fig. depositphotos.com

Raspberry propagation by root cuttings

Raspberry root cuttings are taken in October , when the mother plant has accumulated enough nutrients in the roots. This method is used for quick multiplication when you have little starting material.
To obtain raspberry root cuttings, take root fragments from the mother plantThe root is divided into 15 cm cuttings, with each of which must have at least one adventitious bud. Store the obtained seedlings in a cool room in a 5 cm layer of moist sand, so that the buds protrude above the ground. In spring they will sprout and be ready for permanent planting.

MSc Eng. Anna Błaszczak

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