Cutting ornamental trees and shrubsis one of the most important treatments in the care of these plants. At the same time, it is controversial and often poorly performed. When, what and how to cut? This question is asked by many gardeners and amateur gardeners. An entire book could be written in response. In this short article, however, we will try to present the topic ofcutting ornamental trees and shrubsand systematize the concepts related to it. Learn the most important rules on how tocut trees and ornamental shrubs , thanks to which they will grow beautifully in your garden.
Cutting ornamental trees and shrubs
Each species or variety has a distinctive way of growing and branching. However, not always the growth and development of a tree or shrub is as expected. Sometimes it results from irregularities in the growth of the specimen we have, often also from the fact that when buying a given variety we did not have enough information about its growth.
Due to the reasons for which we performcutting trees and shrubs in the garden , we can distinguish natural cutting (or nursing - this type of cutting will be discussed in this article) and non-natural cutting (i.e. technical - used in the event of a collision of tree crowns with buildings or communication routes).
Regardless of the reasons for which we cut ornamental trees and shrubs,cutting is always our interference with natural growth and development plants , so we should do them carefully and carefully.The more so thatcutting ornamental trees and shrubsis not a simple operation. In order to carry out this procedure properly, you need to know the biology of individual species, and even varieties.It is important to know, for example, on which shoots flower buds are formed and how they are distributed. The correct date and type of pruning for different species varies - it depends on the requirements of the plants and their use in our garden or plot. Some ornamental trees and shrubs do not require pruning at all, others are cut during winter dormancy, and others only after flowering.
Maintenance pruning of ornamental trees and shrubs
The basic type ofmaintenance pruning for trees and shrubsis forming pruning. In the case of trees, it is designed to maintain the dominance of the conductor (i.e. the main shoot in relation to the other shoots forming the tree crown) and prevent the formation of branch bifurcations at an acute angle (this procedure prevents large boughs and branches from breaking out - Fig.1). In the case of ornamental shrubs, it mainly consists in shortening the shoots in order to thicken the lower parts, as well as removing redundant, crossing and competing shoots for light. This type of pruning is especially important for young plants.
Fig. 1. On the left side of the set with a sharp angle between the limbs, in this case, as a result of an increase in the thickness of both limbs, the phenomenon of the so-called a wedge that can lead to a breakout. On the right, a saddle attachment that does not pose a risk of breaking and does not require cutting.
It is also useful to maketranslucent cut , whose task is to loosen the crown and let the light inside. This type of pruning should not be abused - no more than 15% of the weight of the tree crown can be removed at one time. Old and thick branches should not be cut, because the wounds that are formed are large and heal badly.
Removal of dry, diseased and broken branches or shoots is asanitary cut . When removing dead branches, it is important to avoid damaging the living tissues that are active during the healing of pruning wounds. Figure 2 will help here.
Fig. 2. Dead branches are removed using a wedding ring method. First, cut off the withered branch a bit further, and then make a leveling cut at the junction of dead and live wood.
Sometimes it may also be necessary to makecorrective cut , which is performed on the already improperly shaped crowns of older trees and shrubs. In the case of older plants, it may also be necessary to perform a rejuvenating cut. It is based on the gradual removal of old, sick and damaged limbs and branches. Its purpose is to stimulate the plant to produce new and strong shoots. However, you should be aware of the risks involved in making a rejuvenating cut, because old and often weakened plants do not always respond properly to such a cut.
Dates for ornamental trees and shrubs cutting
Work related tocutting trees and shrubsshould always be done on sunny and dry days. The primary factor in deciding when to cut is the flowering time. From February until the beginning of vegetation, we cut bushes and trees that bloom in summer and autumn. Every year, we can trim summer-flowering shrubs on annuals, such as heather. The cut twigs will develop new ones and will bloom in the same year. Shrubs blooming on perennial shoots in the summer should be pruned less frequently, once every few years, so as not to limit the flowering of plants too much.
Shrubs that bloom in spring, such as forsythia, shrubs, lilacs, three-lobed tonsils or goldenrod, must not be cut within the above-mentioned period. These plants form flower buds last summer, and if we had pruned them before flowering, they simply wouldn't be able to bloom. Therefore, we cut them only after flowering, shortening the faded shoots by 1/3 of their length.
I would like to point out here that when choosingthe date for cutting trees and shrubs , be very careful and obtain accurate information about each plant. In many places (articles or books) you can find generalities and simplifications that mislead us. An example is the tavulas, which are most often cut before the beginning of vegetation. There are, however, exceptions, such as early flowering from April, which should be cut only after flowering.
We use slightly different criteria in the case ofcutting hedge shrubsHedges formed from trees and deciduous shrubs are pruned twice a year (in early spring and in July or August). Most of the last increment is removed each time. Coniferous hedges are pruned once a year in the spring before the start of vegetation or in August after the end of growth.
Since we already know more or less what and when to cut - now let's see what better not to cut. Shrubs and conifers, as a rule, do not require pruning (apart from the hedges mentioned above, of course).They can be trimmed in early spring, if they are to be led in the form of artificial forms (e.g. column, cone, ball). Sometimes they also require the removal of branches that are damaged or affected by diseases. They do not tolerate pruning of azaleas, Syrian ketmias, magnolias, mossy witch hazel, podolski wocci, acetic sumacs, daffodils and golden eel. We also avoidcutting ornamental trees , the crown of which has already been formed in the nursery. In this case, we only remove shoots that grow out defective or compete with the guide. It is also not advisable to cut the vines, the slender habit of which is a great decorative value, therefore shaping is the least needed here. We treat cutting the shoots as a last resort in the case of excessive plant density and we perform it in spring.
Technique for cutting ornamental trees and shrubs
There are a few rules to follow to avoid mistakes whencutting trees and shrubs . Therefore, remember to cut the slanting shoots perpendicular to the axis or possibly slightly diagonally from the bud (the point is to keep the wound as small as possible).However, shoots that grow completely vertically will be better trimmed diagonally. We will increase the wound surface, but in the event of rainfall, the water will drain diagonally faster, which will facilitate the drying of the wound and reduce the risk of infection. Hard shoots with a small core are cut about 1/2 cm above the bud facing the bush. Soft shoots with a large core, it is better to cut a little higher (about 1 cm above the bud). Do not leave longer pieces of the shoot as it is harmful and may cause the ends of the shoots to dry up.
Fig. 3 Cutting distance from bud
A) Cut too oblique - risk of damage and disease infections
B) Too far from the bud - leads to the death of the ends of the shoot
C) Too close to the bud - violates the proper development of buds
D) Correct - we ensure he althy growth of the cut shoot
Removing a few small shoots is usually preferable to removing one thick shoot.When thicker branches are removed, larger wounds are formed, which greatly threatens the plant with infection. Lubricate wounds smaller than 10 cm with Funaben or emulsion paint with the addition of a fungicide, such as Topsin M. Wounds of larger diameter, which may arise when cutting large trees, must be double protected - on the edge (about 2 cm), lubricate one of the measures mentioned above, while the inner part of the wound is covered with a special impregnating agent, purchased at a garden store.
We make every cut carefully. Breaking off branches and abrasions of the bark should not be allowed. This can be especially difficult when cutting thick limbs and branches. The method of removing thick branches is shown in fig. 4.
Fig. 4 Cutting thick branches
A - undercut cutting to a depth of about 1/4 of the branch diameter
B - cutting cutting, performed until the root of the removed branch breaks off
C - leveling cut to remove the stump after a broken branch
Securing wounds after cutting
When cutting thicker limbs and branches, remember toapply garden ointment to the cut siteThis will allow the cut wound to heal faster and minimize the risk of pathogens entering. Garden ointment should be applied to the cut sites immediately after trimming. We use a brush for this purpose.
How to become confident in pruning plants?
If you are unsure how to cut or simply afraid to do it, the fantastic book "Cutting School" will help you. Thanks to it, you will gain confidence in pruning plants and learn to cut plants so that they grow according to your expectations. After reading this book, your approach to pruning plants will probably change completely!
