Peperomia , also known as pepper plant, is a popular houseplant. It is eagerly grown in apartments, although it causes problems quite often. See whatvarieties of peperomiaare most often grown in our homes, what the cultivation andcare of peperomia in a pot looks likeand why it is so important to water the peperomia properly.
Peperomia kędzierzawa - Peperomia caperata <p
Peperomia - varieties
The genus peperomia includes about 600 species, occurring mainly in tropical areas. In Poland, species andvarieties of peperomiamost popular in pot growing are:
Peperomia caperata(Peperomia caperata) - is a perennial up to 15 cm tall, the main decorative value of this peperomia is its dark green, fleshy, heavily wrinkled leaves. Noteworthy are also its white flowers growing on thick stems, the so-called Głąbikach. They resemble whiskers and are often referred to as mouse tails. Interesting are thevarieties of curly peperomiawith variegated or purple leaves, such as peperomia 'Rosso'.
Peperomia obtusifolia - is a plant slightly larger than the above-mentioned, reaching up to 30 cm in height. Its main ornamental value is also its leaves, in this species they are light green, broadly glossy. There are interestingvarieties of tufted peperomiawith lighter colored leaves or with bright edges, such as in the cultivar 'Variegata'.
Silvery peperomia , also referred to asSanders peperomia(Peperomia argyreia, syn.p. sandersii) - is a perennial plant reaching up to 20 cm in height. Its leaves are fleshy, broadly oval with sharp tips. The leaves are green with silvery stripes, which contrasts very effectively with the red petioles of this peperomia. There are also interestingvarieties of silver peperomiawith slightly different colored leaves. They are all very pretty.
Peperomia magnoliifolia- a plant often mistaken for a blunt peperomia, but it has more leaves and a more upright habit. Leaves are smooth, waxy and slightly fleshy, arranged alternately on the stems. In older plants, the straight stems begin to bend downwards. In pot cultivation, the most common varieties of magnolileaf peperomia with colorful leaves, such as:magnoliolistna peperomia 'Variegata'(cream-green leaves) andmagnoliolist peperomia 'Green and Gold'(leaves with light green centers, creamy golden in the middle, and dark green from the edge with a feathery pattern on the leaf plate).
Peperomia magnoliifolia - Peperomia magnoliifolia
Photo. haliso, forum.PoradnikOgrodniczy.pl
Peperomia - care, cultivation
How much light does a peperomia need?
Unfortunatelygrowing peperomia in a pot can be a bit problematic , because this plant is quite capricious. First of all, it is importantbright position of peperomia cultivation , but not too strongly, in direct sunlight.The light in the place where the peperomia is grown should be diffused , so it is better not to place the plant directly on the windowsill. When the peperomia is too dark, the internodes become unnaturally elongated, the shoots slack and the leaves small. Then it will help to move the plant to a better lit place.
How to water the peperomia?
Many problems are caused bywatering the peperomia , because in this plant it is very easy to rot the roots and the base of the shoots.That is whypeperomie is rarely watered - every week in summer, every 2-3 weeks in winterThe top layer of soil in the pot should dry out between each watering.Water for watering peperomia must be calcium-free , preferably left standing for at least 1 day at room temperature. Water is always poured on the stand under the pot so as not to wet the leaves and stems of the peperomia. When the soil is soaked, pour the excess water from the stand.Once every 2 weeks, in the spring until the end of summer, add liquid fertilizer for potted plants to the water.
Air humidity and temperature in peperomia cultivation
Peperomia also requires humid air , which is why it often grows best in the kitchen. And never put it near a radiator. If the air is too dry, stands or shallow water trays next to the plant will help. The evaporating water will moisturize the air around the peperomia. An even better solution is to place a pot with peperomia on a wide base filled with pebbles or expanded clay.So much water is poured into the base to keep the pebbles moist all the time, but not to let it soak into the pot standing on the pebbles. Thanks to the pebbles, the surface of water evaporation increases.
Peperomia should not be sprayed with water , because then its leaves are easily attacked by fungal diseases. So we have to rely only on the water that evaporates from the sockets.
The optimaltemperature for growing peperomiaduring the growing period (from spring to autumn) is 18-22 ° C, so this is a typical temperature we have in our homes. In winter, peperomia likes to be a little cooler, but not below 10 ° C, and some peperomia can not even stand below 16 ° C. Such thermophilic species include Sanders' peperomia (Peperomia argyreia).
Curly Peperomia 'Rosso'
Fig. pixabay.com
Peperomia - reproduction
If we want the peperomes to be always nice, it is worth preparing new young cuttings in the apical shoots every two years, and therefore carry outpeperomia propagation Then cut the shoots approx. 5 cm long, tear off the lower leaves, put them in the rooting plant, and then into the pots. After about three weeks, the young plants have roots.
Planting peperomiashould be done in pots filled with a light substrate, rich in nutrients, slightly acidic, preferably with a pH of 5.7-6.8. The idealsoil for peperomiais a mixture of compost soil with ordinary garden soil and peat in a ratio of 4: 2: 1. In practice, however, most often peperomies are planted in ordinary potting soil. Remember to always provide a drainage layer made of small pebbles at the bottom of the pot. You can also use expanded clay.
Peperomia - diseases and pests
Stretching flabby stems and tiny leaves of peperomiaare the result of too little light reaching the plant. These symptoms most often occur in the fall and winter season, when the day is short. Placing the plant closer to the window, preferably to the south, will help.
The rot of the roots and the base of the peperomia shootscauses the loss of the natural color and gloss of the leaves and inhibition of plant growth. Single shoots or whole plants die. When we notice such symptoms on peperomia, it is worth taking the plant out of the pot and examining its roots for rot.
In this situation, the plant should be transplanted to a fresh, lighter substrate. Soils can be loosened by adding sand or perlite. Remember to put pebbles or expanded clay on the bottom of the pot, which will facilitate the drainage of excess water.After transplanting the peperomia less oftenand make sure that the temperature in the room does not drop too low. Also, do not place the peperomia directly on a cold floor.
Brown spots on peperomia leavesthat are initially watery but may dry over time indicate infection with a fungal disease such as leaf blotch. There are several types of peperomia leaf spot, but they are all treated similarly.Infected leaves or whole stems must be cut and removed. Spray the whole plant with Biosept Active, which can be safely used at home. If this proves to be insufficient, it will be necessary to use a fungicide, eg Topsin M 500 SC. Remember, however, that spraying with chemicals should not be done in the apartment.
Pests on peperomiaappear quite rarely. Most often it may be a citrus cup, whose larvae (reminiscent of oval reddish discs) most eagerly feed along the veins from the underside of the leaves, causing characteristic leaf corks. If you find the bowl, it is worth placing insecticidal sticks in the ground. Spraying with the natural Emulpar Spray or the chemical Polysect Hobby will also be helpful. Both of these preparations are available ready for spraying, in spray cans. Therefore, it is very convenient to use at home.The above-mentioned preparations can be ordered in the shop of our guide.To view the offer, press the button below.
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