November in the garden

November in the gardenis the last month in which we can enjoy the bright colors of autumn. The last leaves are falling from the trees, some shrubs still have red fruit glistening, and there are more and more frosts. This is a sign that you need to finishpreparing your garden for winter , and after cleaning - preserve and hide your tools. Here are the most importantgardening work in November

November in the fruit garden

What will November in the garden be like?

November in the garden is a humid and unfortunately always cool monthwith frequent frosts.On November 1, the sun rises around 6.30am and sets a few minutes after midnight. 4:00 p.m. The length of the day is therefore just over nine and a half hours, and by the end of the month it will be shorter by another hour and a half. This monththe growing season of plants almost completely endsThe few trees and shrubs, such as juniper, pine and spruce, still ripen on the few trees and shrubs that are late. Some ornamental shrubs still have colorful fruit. We can admire min. red fruits of rowan, viburnum, barberry and cotoneaster.

The last, brown and dried leaves fall from deciduous trees under the influence of gusts of wind. The larks fly away - the last birds to leave us for the winter. There are also no flying insects, of which only the males of the early mating flight of the early spring and the early mating flight are performed by males. All nature in the middle of the month will be prepared for the winter period. We alsohave to finish all work preparing our gardens for winter

November in the orchard

• The orchard harvest should be completed by now . In November, we collect only the last varieties of autumn raspberries (repeated fruiting).
• After the leaves have fallen, it is a good time toobserve if there are no wintering forms of diseases and pest nests on the crowns of fruit trees . Remove the dried, mummified fruits remaining on the trees.
• You should also collect and remove fallen fruit and leaves from trees that may become a source of disease infection in the next year. To prevent disease transmission, plant residues can be buried deep. Under the current regulations, it is forbidden to burn leaves and branches on the plot, even if they come from sick plants. They are subject to the obligation to segregate and collect waste. The leaves are collected in sacks and posted on the dates set by the commune.
• The fall period, after the leaves have fallen, isa good term to combat the most dangerous disease of the peach , leaf curl. Spraying should be carried out with Miedzian 50 WP at a temperature above 6 ° C, thoroughly spraying the entire surface of the bark on all peach branches.

• The trees growing on the plotare protected against damage caused by hares . We can use plastic casings or wrap the trunks with thick wrapping paper. It is also worth checking the condition of the fence surrounding our plot.

Note!You should not use foil to cover the trunks, because under the foil in the early spring, on a sunny day, the bark of the trees will heat up and become sensitive to frost damage in cold weather. still night.

• We should also remember to protect fruit plants against frost. First of all, those that we have recently planted.Particular care is required for peaches, apricots, walnuts, grapevines and thornless blackberries. We need to protect not only the aerial parts of plants but also their roots. Thereforearound the base of each trunk it is worth making a mound of about 25 cm high from the ground or shredded barkIn spring, after the mounds are opened, the bark will be a valuable layer of mulch.

• Blackberry and some vines require special precautions . We untie shoots from supports and shorten them partially. Then put them on the ground or in a shallow groove and cover them with a layer of soil or cover them with a straw mat.
• Let's not forget about looking after the fruit that is stored for storage. Rotting specimens should be regularly removed to limit the transmission of infection and prevent remaining fruit from rotting.

November in the vegetable garden

• Althoughthe harvest date for most vegetables has already passed , we can still harvest root vegetables, brassica and summer leek varieties.
• Late harvested cabbage varieties are perfect for pickling. We don't need barrels for this. Glass jars are enough to pickle cabbage at home.
• The date of kale harvest has arrivedThe lower, slightly yellowed leaves are torn off and discarded, while for consumption we choose the next, nice and he althy leaves from the middle part of the plant. After slightly frosting, the kale is tastier (less bitterness, more sugar). Therefore, we can wait until the first frost to harvest. The collected leaves should be used immediately or stored in the refrigerator (not longer than 3 days).

• After harvesting, clean the beds and remove plant residues from themRemnants not infected with diseases can be composted. It is worth digging the soil, especially heavy soil. In addition to loosening the soil, in this way we destroy some of the larvae and pupae of pests wintering in the soil, such as, for example, carrot shed, onion cream, grubs and wireworms.
• The asparagus begins its winter sleep. Their stalks are already yellow and dry. To prevent the development of fungal infectionscut the asparagus stalks just above the groundas soon as they dry (to make it before the true winter weather).

November in the vegetable garden

• We can try growing chicory indoors in winter. To do this, at the beginning of November, carefully dig up the chicory growing on the beds and use a sharp knife to cut out all the leaves at a height of about 2.5 cm above the root. We also cut off all the side roots and shorten the main root to a length of 20 cm. Then leave the roots in a ventilated place for a few days. For driving, prepare a bucket (or other container) with drainage holes in the bottom and a water stand, and place a 10 cm layer of soil at the bottom of the container. Put the roots in and water them, then cover them thoroughly with soil and water them again.Then the whole thing is tightly covered with another container. When the soil is dry, the next portions of water are delivered by pouring it into the base.
• In November, we sow winter vegetables. Immediately before the onset of frost, carrots, parsley and garden dill are sown (the seeds will swell and in this state will overwinter in the soil). Thanks to this, in spring we will be able to start harvesting about two weeks earlier.
• If there are no frosts, we can still process the compost, spread manure, dig green manure or apply mineral fertilizers.

November in the ornamental garden

• Leaves falling from trees should be removedWe can use them as airy mulch or as an additive to compost. However, we must be sure that the leaves come from he althy trees and will not transmit diseases. Otherwise, they should be packed in bags and handed over in accordance with the requirements of waste segregation. The burning of fires in the garden to get rid of leaves is currently prohibited.
• Cleaning the leaves will be easier with a garden vacuum cleaner. If it has the function of shredding the leaves, they will take up much less space, and when added to the compost, they will decompose faster.
• Cut and remove the dried-up parts of annuals and perennials . We remove all parts of plants affected by diseases, as well as seeds and inflorescences.
• As long as the ground is not frozen , we can plant trees and shrubs in the fall. However, remember to protect them against frost.
• We can still plant heathers until mid-November.
• One of the most important November works is covering plants sensitive to low temperatures. The soil around plants with roots that are less resistant to frost (e.g. rhododendrons, magnolias) should be mulched with pine bark, sawdust, needles or leaves.Rose bushes should be rooted with earth , and evergreen shrubs (rhododendrons, barberries) should be covered entirely with straw mats or coniferous twigs.

Note!Putting on winter covers should not be rushed too much, so as not to delay the plant dormancy. Usually, we put on winter covers for plants only when frosts regularly occur and the top layer of soil begins to freeze. This takes place around mid-November. Of course, the date may vary depending on the region of the country and the weather.

• After the first frostwe protect the bulbs of tulips, narcissi, hyacinths and lilies planted in the beds . Cover the soil with a 5 cm layer of leaf, peat, bark or chopped straw mulch.
• Before the onset of winter, water all deciduous and coniferous evergreen trees and shrubs , because the frequent cause of plant death during winter is not only frost, but also lack of water in the soil. On sunny winter days, water evaporates from the soil and the plants are additionally dried up by frosty dry winds.See more: Watering plants in winter.

November in the ornamental garden

• November is the right time to collect woody cuttings of deciduous shrubs such as jasmine or liguster.
• The first inspection of the dahlia carp, begonia tubers and kanna rhizomes stored in the rooms (e.g. basement)The peat we covered them with should be slightly damp. We also pay attention to the presence of fungal diseases. Remove heavily infested organs and apply a loose fungicide. See more: storage of non-wintering perennials in the ground.
• Shallow ponds should be drained of water . We transfer plants and fish to properly prepared containers or aquariums. In larger tanks, frost-resistant plants can remain in their place.

Flowers at home, balconies and terraces in November

• Not resistant to frostplants grown in containers should be moved to rooms . Remember that clay and terracotta containers are usually not frost resistant and can break. Therefore, they should be emptied and returned to the room.
• If we open a window in the apartment to ventilate, remove the plants from the window sill, because the blasts of cold air can harm them.
• Water the potted flowers in the same way as in October. We often wash palm trees and large-leaved plants with warm water. We should also remember to place a vessel with water on the radiators and provide the plants with a suitable wintering temperature.
• For the winter, we move the cacti to a bright room, but with a low temperature, not exceeding 10 ° C.
• In a warmer place, we move the pot in which grows zygocactus or hipeastrum (often incorrectly referred to as amaryllis). When flower buds start to appear, start watering regularly.

Lawn in November

• Remove the leaves falling from the trees from the lawn.
• Remember aboutsecuring gardening tools and equipment for the winter periodTools should be thoroughly cleaned, sharpened and protected with appropriate grease. Electric mowers are also thoroughly cleaned, the knives are unscrewed, cleaned, sharpened and maintained before tightening again. It is important to keep tools and mowers in a dry room.

How to plan work in the garden?

If you want to prepare as best as possible for gardening work for a given month and be sure that you will never miss anything important that needs to be done in the garden again, use the resourceful gardener's planner calendar book. It is a practical gardening guide with a gardening calendar for the whole year and a place for your own notes. More information in the description on our store's website: -)