When mowing, we sprinkle trees, shrubs and perennials at the base, protecting the roots and low-lying shoots. Even if the above-ground part of the plant freezes, it will bounce off the root buds in spring. Find out how and what we make mounds to protect plants.
The cheapest and readily available material for mounds is the soil around the plant. We can also buy ordinary garden soil. The soil works best for mounds of trees and larger shrubs.We protect perennials, dwarf shrubs and species with delicate stems from frost with peat and bark. Peat, bark and sawdust, in turn, are ideal for heather plants: heather, pieris or heather. Wood chips and dry leaves are good for covering all perennials.
The first strong frosts are a sign that you can start working. A drop in temperature puts the plant in a state of rest and prepares it for the onset of winter. We start work with cleaning the area and removing all plant and organic debris. This is extremely important as they can be a source of infection and a habitat for pests. The decaying layer of organic matter also reduces the effectiveness of plant isolation from unfavorable weather conditions.
We must not make mounds on the frozen soil, because it thaws late in the spring, inhibiting the development of plants. The exceptions are mounds of sawdust and bark.In this case, slightly frozen soil inhibits their decomposition. Thanks to this, the plant does not get scalded and hardened by the heat generated during the decomposition of organic material.
For most plants, the mound is 20-30 cm high. Sprinkle the hydrangeas a little higher - to a height of 40-50 cm. We can increase the protection against cold and moisture by additionally covering the mound with garlands, straw or agrotextile. We can also cover the entire plant with a roof or structure made of boards, foil or glass panes.
The mounds should be cleared in spring, when the risk of spring frosts has passed, but the buds have not yet developed. If we hold the mound too long, we will weaken the plant, which will release brittle, brittle shoots.
Newly planted plants such as fireflies, magnolias, tulip trees, apple trees, plum trees, ornamental grasses, bamboos and peonies require mounds for 2-3 years.
Annual mounds require plants sensitive to frost, such as: azaleas, rhododendrons, roses, hydrangeas, heathers and heathers, clematis, wisteria, holly, pampas grass, hydrangeas and Chinese dry trees.
Mounding roses for winter consists in making a 20 cm high hill at the base of the hill. In non-mulched beds, the easiest way is to simply scoop up the soil and create a protective mound around each rose bush. The soil should be additionally covered with a layer of organic mulch to prevent the mounds from falling apart under the influence of atmospheric precipitation. After forming, it is a good idea to lightly water the mound so that it settles well. Then we wrap the whole plant tightly with e.g. agrotextile, which we tie at the base of the bush.
When spring comes, all you have to do is pull back and straighten the ground. Decaying organic matter will make an excellent fertilizer.