Position for new plantings
A suitable position is prepared for a few weeks before planting new trees. The first step is to weed the surface.To make sure that we destroy not only the green parts of weeds, but also the roots and runners in the soil, we spray with total herbicides.
We liming the soil when necessary, and after some time we add manure or other organic fertilizer.If we do not have manure, we give mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium. They should be mixed with the soil before planting the plants because they move very slowly in the soil.
If we plant trees in spring, we can also sow aftercrop crops, such as field plants, lupins or vetch . After digging, they will provide the soil with organic matter and nitrogen. Sown mustard or marigold will catch and destroy harmful soil nematodes.
Tie up trees
The fruit begins to gain weight quickly a few weeks before harvest. If it is a year of bountiful fruiting, be sure to tie or support the branches so that they do not break under the weight of the fruit.Most trees are grafted on dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstocks that have a weak root system.Plants must be secured to a stable stake so that strong winds do not knock them over.
Time to cut cherries
The most advantageous cutting date for cherries is the summer after fruiting, as it promotes the rapid healing of wounds.Cut trees at this time are least affected by bark and wood diseases.
Regular shortening of the shoots will make the entire crown bear fruit, not just its outer part.Long, slender shoots are considerably shortened, while the oldest, thick branches are cut out completely, leaving only a short stub of several centimeters.
By the way, we also cut out shoots that are broken and affected by diseases.A leakage on the bark of the vitreous rubber in a yellow color means that the shoot is infected by bacteria or fungi.If we notice such symptoms, cut the shoot to a he althy place,
and smear the wound with a fungicide.
