Irreplaceable on a flowerbed and in a pot
The delphinium delphinium is one of the most popular bedding plants. There are three groups of delphiniums. The first are Belladonna hybrids, which include, among others. cultivars 'Moerheimia' and 'Piccolo', growing to a height of 80-100 cm.These delphiniums are distinguished by a loose structure of flowers and relatively long flowering.
The second group, the most numerous, are Elatum hybrids, which include, among others, the 'Lanzenträger' and 'Polarfuchs' varieties. The delphiniums representing this group have dense flower shoots 150 to 180 cm high and are distinguished by quite high fracture resistance.The third group are Pacific hybrids, they include, among others. variations of 'Black Knight' and 'Blue Bird'. Plants in this group reach a height of up to 180 cm and are perfect for cut flowers.
One of the most important care treatments is to protect young shoots against snails.We have written about prevention and the fight against these troublesome mollusks many times.During the growth, the delphiniums should be supported on poles to prevent the main shoot from breaking. If after the June and July blooming the flower shoots are cut at the height of the leaves and the plants are fed, we can expect that they will bloom again in late summer.
Garden delphiniums are perennial plants, while delphiniums are annual plants, often smaller than delphiniums.They are sown into the ground in September or October.
We propagate container plants
The turn of June and July is the best time to propagate container plants. During this period, cuttings can be used to propagate, among others long-lived plants.
The term seedlings is understood as those parts of the shoot that develop roots and become independent plants in the new environment.The seedlings should be strong and he althy, but not lignified.The bark of the shoots must be green. Observations show that the tops of the shoots take root most successfully. These must be 10 cm long and must not have flowers. 2-4 leaflets are left at the apex of the shoot. if they are large, such as hydrangeas, shorten them by about 1/3 of the length; Thanks to this, the water accumulated in the shoots will not evaporate so quickly, and the water management of plants will be more balanced.
The seedlings are planted in small pots with fresh soil for potted plants to the holes made with the planters, the seedlings should be deepened in the substrate to half their height, the soil around the plants is kneaded.Then we water the seedlings and cover them with a transparent lampshade made of glass or plastic and place them on a bright, but not sunny, place in a greenhouse or apartment. The room should be aired several times a day, even for a few minutes, so that as much fresh air as possible flows into the accommodation.
Different hedge cross-sections for different hedge plants trapezoidal cross-section
Trapezoid cross-section
This cross-section works well for all hedge plants. It is very easy to explain: the narrowing of the walls of the hedge upwards allows for optimal sunlight on all parts of the bush. As a result, the hedge turns green throughout its entire height.Roots should be trimmed in time to keep the hedge in the desired shape.Yew, maple and European beech are suitable for narrow, tall plantings. Thuja and Cypress are also perfect in this case.
Oval cross-section
Shrubs with a spreading habit, such as privet, laurel and Thunberg's barberry, work best in this type of arrangement. In exact cross-section, the hedge should resemble a half of an oval cut along the shorter side.
This means that the planting should slightly widen downwards. Then the sides are also well insolated. Forming this type of planting requires practice as the hedge walls are not parallel. Applying a ready-made template is helpful.
Cuboid cross-section
The form of a cuboid is suitable for those hedgerows that tolerate shaded positions. It is related to the fact that the lower part of the hedge is not sloped, which makes it less sunny.The form of a cuboid can be planted with hornbeam, beech and yew.Other plants, such as thuja and cypress, may the lower parts dry out. Unfortunately, the clearances created by this can no longer be closed, because old, heavily woody shoots do not sprout young buds.
July in the vegetable garden
Still planting
Root celery, kale and cauliflower can be planted at the beginning of June. In order for the vegetable seedlings to take root faster and develop better, the growing medium should be supplemented with 100-150 g / m2 of complete organic fertilizer before planting.
We look at the beans
In periods of long-lasting drought, the flowers of dwarf and tic beans fall, while the formed pods wither.Therefore, remember to feed the plants twice (with a moderate amount of fertilizer) until flowering.Moreover, the substrate should be kept in constant humidity during flowering and fruiting.
We are digging carrots
Regularly digging carrots, as well as peas and black radish, makes the plants take root better, absorb water better and are not washed away by rains. The soil should by no means cover the center of the leaf rosette.
We practice radicchio
Radicchio is sown in sunny positions from mid-June to July.The distance between the rows should be 25 cm.The interruption should be paused until the seedlings are 10-15 cm high (after breaking, the row spacing should be 15 cm).Collected seedlings can be cleaned and add to the salad.
Cherry and sour cherry varieties ripening weeks
The collective maturity of sweet cherry varieties is determined by the so-called weeks of ripening cherries. The first week of the ripening of sweet cherries, the period when sweet early varieties such as 'Burlat' and 'Earlises' ripen between the end of May and the beginning of June.
'Burlat' is very popular, it is distinguished by vigorous growth and large, dark red fruits with juicy, firm flesh. In the third and fourth cherry weeks, which fall in mid-June, the fruits of such varieties as 'Celeste', 'Lapinus' and 'Sunburst' are harvested.
a variation of 'Summit'.The cherry cultivar 'Kordia' bears fruit at the end of the seventh or early eighth cherry week.The cherry season ends in week eight with a harvest of varieties such as 'Bianca' and 'Sweetheart'.
Cherries (depending on the variety) ripen between the 3rd and the 6th week of cherry ripening. An extremely noble variety is 'Königin Hortense', which is a hybrid of cherry and sweet cherry (it matures from the 3rd to the 4th week).
