Dracaenadue to their interesting, exotic appearance, they are very often grown in apartments. However, as plants originating in tropical regions, they have quite high requirements as to growing conditions and quite often cause problems. Owners of these plants most often complain thatdracaena leaves turn yellow and falland on dry leaf tips. See how to recognizedracaena diseasesand how to help a plant with such symptoms.
Dracaena diseases - dry leaf ends
In most casesDracaenadiseases result from improper growing conditions. Undoubtedly, the most common problem isdry tips of dracaena leavesThe cause of drying out of the tips of dracaena leaves is usually too dry air, which is not difficult in apartments heated in winter. In such a situation, it helps to sprinkle the dracaena leaves and place trays of water under the plants, which will gradually evaporate. Remember also that the dracaena should not be standing directly next to the radiator.
Both too dry air and too high temperature, as well as too low air temperature, can causedracaena to lose lower leavesOf course, remember thatfalling the lower leaves of the dracaenais a natural phenomenon. In this way, the trunk of the plant is formed, and the fallen leaves are replaced with new ones growing at the top of the shoot. The problem occurs when the leaves are shed enormously, and the trunk breaks loose from below.
Very fast temperature rise (e.g.after bringing dracaena from a cool flower shop to a warm apartment) can causecracks in the edges of the dracaena leavesThe most common cracks appear at the base of the leaf blades. The Dracaena Dracaena 'Warneckii' is particularly sensitive to this ailment, but it may also apply to other dracaena. In order to prevent fracture of the edges of the leaves, the plant should be provided with a constant cultivation temperature and even short-term large fluctuations in temperature should be avoided.
A common mistake isover-watering the dracaena , leading to rotting of its roots and stems. Therefore, care should be taken that the top layer of soil has time to dry between waterings, and after watering, you must always pour out the excess water that has flowed onto the stand under the pot. When in excessively watereddracaena, the lower leaves turn yellow, flabby and fall off , the plant should be removed from the ground and the condition of its roots should be checked. If, after taking it out, we notice thatrot of the base of the stem and roots of the dracaenahas occurred, the plant is basically to be thrown away.When only the initial symptoms appear, the dracaena should be transplanted to a lighter soil with drainage at the bottom of the pot, and the frequency of watering should be reduced. Water the transplanted plant with one of the following preparations: Biosept Active (0.1% solution), Beta-Chikol (1%), Dithane NeoTec 75 WG (0.2%) or Topsin M 500 SC (0.1%).
Dracaena diseasescan also result from excessive sun exposure, leading to leaf burns. Remember that for most dracaena, a bright but not directly sunny place is recommended. The light should be diffused, e.g. in winter right next to the window, but at least 1 meter from the window in summer. In turn, too dim lighting causesfading and poorer coloring of the leavesvarieties with multi-colored leaves.
Problems in the cultivation of dracaena can also result from improper fertilization. Fertilization deficiencies may be manifested by slow growth, leaf shrinkage, as well asyellowing and shedding of lower leavesIn turn, the disappearance of the characteristic intense coloring of dracaena leaves may indicate nitrogen over-fertilization.Necroticspots in the apical part of the dracaena leavesor yellow, then browning anddrying surfaces at the edge of the leaf blademay be due to excess fluoride. Phosphate fertilizers and tap water can be the source of fluoride. In such a case, change the fertilizer used to another one, and for watering, use only stagnant water for at least 1 day.
Dracaena may also have abacterial leaf spotIn thisdracaena diseaseappear watery,dark brown, quickly enlarging spots on dracaena leavesSometimes the stem at the base turns black and the rot quickly spreads to the base of the petioles. Diseased, greasy tissues may give off an unpleasant odor. When such symptoms are found, the plant should be removed. In the case of light infestation, the diseased leaves are removed, and the whole plant with the substrate is sprayed with one of the plant growth stimulants limiting the development of the disease, e.g.Biosept Active (0.1%) or Beta-Chikol (2.5%), Pokon Biochitan 020 PC (2.5%). The measure of Miedzian 50 WP (0.3%) is also recommended.
The above-mentioned leaf spot has a bacterial background, but the dracaena hasleaf spotwith a fungal background. Then,yellow, with time browning, irregular spotswith a diameter of 1-5 mm, surrounded by a purple border, form on the lower leaves of diseased dracaena. Black clusters of fungus spores are visible on the surface of the dead tissues. To limit the development of thisdracaena disease , remove infected leaves and stop sprinkling the plant. A series of sprays should also be performed (at least 3 sprays at intervals of 7-10 days) with alternating biopreparations and fungicides. The following biopreparations will be useful: Biosept Active (0.1%), Beta-Chikol (1%), Himal Cube with garlic (former Bioczos BR), Biochikol 020 PC (1%), Pokon Biochitan 020 PC (1%), and fungicides - Dithane NeoTec 75 WG (0.2%) and Topsin M 500 SC (0.1%).
On dracaena there may also befusarium leaf blotch , as a result of whichdecay of the bases of whole leaf rosettes minor appear on the leaves , irregular, watery patcheswith a light yellow border. Biochikol 020 PC (1%), Pokon Biochitan 020 PC (1%) or Topsin M 500 SC (0.1%) fungicide will be helpful in fighting this disease.
