Are we bored with the old tree variety, does it bear less fruit or get sick often? If so, I suggest transplanting them. In this way, we will refresh our orchard and ensure a richer harvest.
I prepare for the grafting of trees in February or March - after the deepest frosts are over. Then I trim the branches in the part intended for transplantation. For this treatment, you will also need slips, i.e. one-year-old, well-developed shoots of the noble variety. These, in turn, I download earlier - in December or January, when the trees are in a state of rest.
As for the grafting technique, I cut the rootstocks and cuttings diagonally to a length of 4 cm. It is important that the cutting knife is sharp and does not hurt the branches. I immediately adjust the blinked ends of the scion to the foundation and wrap it with a bandage. It is better than foil strips that can infusethe whole branch.
Most allotment gardeners they know usually apply ointment to vaccination sites. Personally, I do not recommend it. I think clay is much better for this. It also heals wounds and maintains adequate moisture. So I put two tablespoons of clay on the bandaged vaccine. I water this "humidity reservoir" with non-chlorinated water every evening for 25 days. Of course, if it is raining, I do not water the vaccine.
This budding system is almost 100% effective. So far, almost all vaccines have caught on. For this purpose, I choose trees that are no less than two and no more than 10 years old. In this way, 2 years ago I successfully grafted a pear tree to chokeberry.
Paweł Krechowicz
