The Orchidaceae family includes over 20,000 diverse plants that can be found in both hemispheres, in almost all climatic zones. This huge variety of forms and places of occurrence means that individual species often differ significantly in cultivation requirements.
Orchids (also called orchids) are generally classified into ground-rooted and epiphytes that develop on tree branches. The former prefer slightly more fertile, wetter and more shaded sites, while the epiphytes grow with their roots into the crevices of the bark or branch fork, where some fallen leaves and the ground blown by the wind have gathered. They have an abundance of diffused sunlight, but little water and nutrients.Therefore, they often store the necessary substances in thickened stems and leaves.
When we become the owners of an orchid, it is worth remembering a few basic rules for the care of these plants. Orchids grow well in quiet places, they do not like drafts and cold breezes, so they should be adequately protected when ventilating the apartment.If they have enough light and enough warmth, they can stand in the back of a bedroom, living room or even in a bright bathroom.They feel bad in the kitchen without good ventilation, because they do not tolerate the fumes generated during combustion gas.
Contents:
- Watering orchids
- Air humidification
- Temperature favorable for the care of orchids
- Orchid fertilization
- Orchid replanting
Watering orchids
Improper watering is the most common cause of failure in orchid cultivation. Their roots like to breathe and must be provided with air. Often flooded, they quickly rot. In nature, epiphytes draw water only from precipitation, and the substitute of the substrate in which they are rooted is quickly dried by the wind.
It is best to water the orchids not very often, but abundantly when the substrate in the container is completely dry. Species rooted in the ground do not tolerate longer periods of drought, but they also do not feel well in wet ground. Therefore, we should water them so that the substrate is only slightly moist all the time.
What are sticky spots on orchid leaves?
If the orchid develops properly and we do not observe other disturbing symptoms, the sticky spots on the leaves of the plant are the result of gutation, i.e. condensation. It is a natural physiological phenomenon in which the plant gets rid of excess water by secreting aqueous solutions of organic compounds and mineral s alts in the form of drops.This happens when the transpiration process is either absent or insufficient. What does that mean to us? The plant is watered too much and / or too often and may have been shed too much as a consequence.
- says Dr. Eng. Tomasz Mróz
Air humidification
The optimal air humidity for most orchids is 80-90%, although some species are satisfied with 60-70%. In our apartments, it is not always possible to maintain air humidity even at this lower level, especially in winter, when radiators heat up.
The easiest way is to pour gravel or expanded clay into a large flat container, which we fill half with water.Place the pots with orchids on gravel so as not to submerge them . The water will slowly evaporate and moisten the air around the plants.
Orchids should not be sprinkled, because wet flower petals and leaves often become covered with brown spots, and if the temperature in the room is below 16 ° C, the water accumulating on the plant promotes the appearance of fungal diseases. Let's remember not to spray the orchids directly, but only to their immediate surroundings.
Temperature favorable for the care of orchids
Contrary to appearances, not all orchids like high temperatures. There are so many differences between the individual species in this regard that these plants are divided into so-called orchids. cold, moderate and warm greenhouses.
The first group includes: Coelogyne crista, Cymbidium, Odontoglossum crispum, Paphiopedilum insigne and Zygopetalum. In summer they require temperatures from 16 to 20 ° C, and in winter - from 14 to 16 ° C.
A moderate greenhouse is represented by: Cattleya, Dendrobium, Epidendrum, Gongora, Laelia, Oncidium and Stanhopea, which feel best in the summer at 18 to 25 ° C, and in winter - from 16 to 18 ° C.
The last group, i.e. a warm greenhouse, consists of: Angraecum, Phalaenopsis, Vanda and some species of Paphiopedilum and Dendrobium. In summer, we have to provide them with a temperature of 20 to 27 ° C, in winter - from 20 to 25 ° C.
Light
The most common species of orchids we cultivate come from tropical climates. This does not mean, however, that they should stand on the southern windowsill at home, on the contrary, these plants prefer diffused light.So they feel best on the west or south-eastern window sill, and on hot days they should be shaded and provided more air humidity.
Whether the orchid stands in the right place, it is best to know the appearance of the plant - its leaves turn pale and turn yellow when the sun is too harsh. In extreme cases, brown burn marks may appear on them. Orchids with too little light do not grow and bloom poorly.
Because in the tropics, regardless of the season, a day lasts about 12 hours, to provide orchids with appropriate conditions, we should provide additional light to plants in the fall and winter season. On clear days, you can turn on, for example, a fluorescent lamp for 5-6 hours in the afternoon and evening. When it is cloudy, we can illuminate the orchid even all day.Remember, however, that species that go dormant in autumn should not be illuminated for longer than 12 hours, because it will inhibit the process of flower bud production.
Orchid fertilization
We start them after the orchids have faded, because that's when they start to grow and need a nutrient with a high nitrogen content.It is best to use nutrients intended only for these plants, because they have a properly selected composition and do not contain calcium, which alkalizes the substrate, which prevents orchids from absorbing nutrients.
In practice, there are two methods of fertilizing orchids. The first is to apply fertilizer at each watering - then 1/3 or 1/4 of the basic dose is diluted in water, the second is to use fertilizer (in a basic or slightly smaller dose) alternately with watering with clean water.
Orchids are easy to over-fertilize because they have really low nutritional requirements and are very sensitive to the excessive concentration of mineral s alts in the substrate. Too dark green leaves are evidence of over-fertilization. Such an orchid is unlikely to bloom.
Substrate
The most important thing is the physical properties of the substrate in which the orchid grows. If it is an epiphyte, the substrate should be quite hard and porous so that the air can reach the roots without obstruction. The substrate for orchids must be highly absorbent, otherwise it will not retain the water and mineral s alts needed by the plant.If we do not manage to buy a special substrate, we can make it ourselves, mixing pine bark (necessarily composted, free of tannins that inhibit the growth process), peat and leaf soil.
Peat can be replaced with sphagnum moss, bark - with charcoal, expanded clay and even polystyrene (they will loosen the substrate a bit). The substrate for species that root directly in the ground should be enriched with a small amount of fertile flower substrate.This mixture has a slightly acidic reaction necessary for the proper growth of the orchids.
Orchid replanting
"Orchids are transplanted into a new pot every 2-3 years, after the roots have come out of the container or when the substrate becomes soft, uniform and decomposed. After flowering, we replant the plants to a slightly larger pot.If they have too much substrate, the drying out of the root ball after watering will be excessively longer and the orchids will start to get sick. "
We are preparing a new container with a large hole in the bottom, through which water will flow out quickly. Lay a fairly thick layer of drainage at the bottom, put the plant with cleaned roots and supplement the missing substrate with fresh substrate. If the roots had a gray tint, the plant should be watered, if it was green, it should not be watered on the day of transplanting.
Rest period
For orchids to develop flower buds, they must undergo a period of dormancy. Most winter-flowering species enter lethargy in early July. Then we stop watering and place the flowers in a slightly shaded place. If it is possible, it is good to take the orchids to the balcony or to the garden (however, they need to be shaded and protected from rain).
In the open air, they will feel better the difference in temperature between day and night, which has a positive effect on the formation of buds.After 6 weeks, we bring the plants back home. During the rest period, only at home, it is best to provide orchids with a temperature of 16-18 ° C.
How to trim dead orchid roots?
The dead orchid roots are shortened to a he althy place so as not to damage the he althy tissue. If the death is the result of rotting, then shorten with an overlap (excess) so as to remove the diseased parts of the plant.Sometimes it is necessary to cut the entire root down to the very center of the plant. Additionally, we can use tweezers to clean the inter-root spaces of dead tissue fragments. After the treatment, and before re-planting, the affected areas should dry out (approx. 1 day in a ventilated place). Additionally, damages caused by cutting can be covered with powdered active carbon.
- says Dr. Eng. Tomasz Mróz
