Pruning rosesis one of the basic procedures in growing these shrubs. The rules for cutting roses are not very complicated, but it is worth knowing that the method of cutting should be adapted to the type of roses that grow in our garden. We explainhow to trimroses from each group. The cutting instructions are supplemented with photos with examples, an overview of the cutting technique and tips onwhen to trim rosesRead this practical guide on how to trim roses in the garden!
See how and when to trim the roses to grow he althy and bloom profusely
If we want rose bushes to please us with their beautiful flowers and pleasant scent, we must remember about their proper care. One of the basic procedures that is necessary when growing most varieties iscorrect pruning of the rosesIt is not only about shortening the shoots right after planting the plant to a permanent place, but also shaping the structure of the shrub afterwards, so thatroses will bloom reliably every year and decorate our garden
In addition to achieving lush flowering,the purpose of trimming the roses is to allow more light and air into the shrubs. Thanks to this, the plants will get sick less often and their care will be much easier. In order for the cutting of roses to bring the desired results, we must remember about a few simple but necessary rules relating not only to the date of the procedure, but also the method of its implementation. Sohow to prune roses to achieve all these benefits ?
We cut the roses at a height of about 20-30cm
The main rule when trimming roses isis to have a smooth, even and as small wound surface as possible and a sufficient distance from the lowest bud. Roses are delicate plants, very susceptible to fungal diseases, therefore we always cut roses with well-sharpened secateurs and try not to injure or crush the shoots during this procedure.
Roses are usually pruned at a distance of 0 5 to 0.8 cm from the last he althy bud , flat or slightly sloping. If there are brown discoloration, cracks or crayfish on the shoot, cut lower, above the tallest he althy bud, from which strong shoots will then grow and sprinkled with flowers.
Trimming the rose is about 0.5 cm above the eyelet
Another very important thing isthe direction of the bud growth, over which we make the cutIt is best if it is directed outside the bush, because then new shoots will grow in this direction. Stems growing inwards thicken their habit, rub against each other, causing wounds and flowering less.
If there are strong long shoots below the grafting site, which do not belong to the nobler variety, but grow from the rootstock,we need them also trim so that they do not dominate the entire plant over time
Each, even the smallestwound after trimming the roseshould be covered with garden ointment or emulsion paint with the addition of a fungicide, such as Topsin M 500 SC. If you have many rose bushes or the pruning was very strong and the plant is still good, you can also spray with one of the commercially available fungicides. Thanks to this, we will have a guarantee thatby injuries after cutting roseswill not penetrate into the shoots of pathogenic microorganisms.
It is generally accepted that basicpost-planting pruning of roses is carried out in the spring , in mid-April, when the buds are already swollen. By this date, there is no longer a risk of more severe frosts that could damage the top buds closest to the cut. Frost damage to the buds would require the procedure to be repeated, otherwise the dying tissues would be the site of pathogenic fungi penetrating the shrubs, causing the entire shrubs to dry up.
A shoot that has survived the winter does not have to be green on the outside. It is enough that it is whitish-green inside
The rush is cold. We should try to cut lower to get to the point where the shoot is alive
New,young rose bushes are strongly cut , thus reducing the number of shoots and leaves.This is to reduce transpiration and make plants rooting better. By reducing the aboveground parts, we maintain the root-shoot balance, which greatly accelerates the adoption of the shrubs in a new place and prevents their dying off during long periods of summer drought.
The method of pruning the roses in the following yearsafter planting depends on what kind of roses we grow in our garden. We will shorten the shoots differently in the case of park and climbing roses, and differently on shrubs of large-flowered varieties and stem roses.
Rose shrub in spring after pruning
Stem roses, or rose bushes grafted on a trunk, so popular recently, are cut carefully, remembering to keep the correct shape of the crown. If the noble variety belongs to the group of large-flowered roses, we cut strongly each year, leaving 3 to 4 buds on each shoot. On the other hand, if we have a variety from the group of climbing roses grafted on a tall trunk, we must first check whether it blooms on this year's or last year's shoots. If flowers appear on older shoots after vigorously pruning such a plant, flowering will be very little or not occur at all.
Bedding roses, which include the enormity of varieties available on the market, are cut in a manner similar to that described for shortening the shoots of large-flowered roses, with the difference that we leave at least 6 to 7 buds on each shoot.The number of shoots forming the bush in this case may vary between 5 and 10.
Climbing roses are beautiful plants that are widely used in allotments. Garden owners use them as covers for unsightly places, space dividers or living fences to create hedges. In this group of varieties, there is another internal division into varieties that do not repeat flowering (so-called ramblers) and varieties that give flowers again in late summer.
A rose that is not pruned thickens excessively and blooms poorly
Fig. pixabay.com
Prune the climbing roses that do not repeat flowering every year , removing the blown shoots and a whole bunch of thin long twigs growing at the base of the bush. To stimulate branching, we can only shorten some of the two-year-old shoots by half, which will fill the gap left by the remaining cut shoots.A strong cut in the lower part is necessary for some varieties (e.g. 'Dorothy Perkins') as they are very susceptible to powdery mildew. This rose fungus disease develops especially quickly when the leaves are kept moist for a long time.
Climbing rose varieties repeated flowering do not require such a strong pruningJust remove every 2 or 3 years the oldest or too thin shoots that overly thicken the bush. However, shoots that are frozen or with symptoms of disease should be removed every spring. In this way, we ensure good plant he alth.
In flowering varieties once a year, after flowering, we only carry out a forming cut and a rejuvenating cut once every 2-3 years, which is to stimulate the plants to create young, strong shoots. In addition, we remove all damaged, frozen and sick shoots.
First of allremember to protect the wounds after pruning the roses , which we wrote in more detail in the first part of the article (general principles of pruning). In the case of allvarieties, the roses after pruning should be supplemented with compound fertilizer with an increased nitrogen content , which will result in the formation of strong, young shoots, and watered systematically. After completing the work related to cutting roses, the garden pruning shears should be thoroughly washed, decontaminated in alcohol or a fungicide solution, and after drying, sharpen well and preserve until the next use. , and plants have become a real decoration of your garden!
If you are unsure how to cut or simply afraid to do it, the fantastic book "Cutting School" will help you. Thanks to it, you will gain confidence in pruning plants and learn to cut plants so that they grow according to your expectations. After reading this book, your approach to pruning plants will probably change completely!