Summer in the garden. Diseases and pests that attack the garden in summer

Summer in the gardenis the perfect time of the year. Long, sunny days allow you to enjoy the beautiful view of the plants. The colors of the flowers shimmer in the sun like a rainbow in the sky, making our faces smile. The juicy green of the grass soothes the nerves, calms down and relieves stress. However, not only we humans are lovers of summer gardens. Frequent, however, uninvited guests in our gardens arediseases and pests of plantsThey act like vandals, destroying what is beautiful and valuable. That is why it is so importantto protect plants from diseases and peststhat attack gardens in the summer.What to pay attention to and what kind of spraying should be performed in July and August?


Summer in the garden - aphids are often seen on plants at this time of the year. These pests can attack various plant species and are usually very numerous

Pests attacking plants in summer

The most common pest in the summer is, of course,aphidIn our garden we can meet various species of this pest, which differ in color, size and preferences regarding the host plants. Aphids suck the sap from plants, causing them to wilt and often deform leaves and flowers. The feeding of aphids weakens the plants, making them more susceptible to infection. The harmfulness of aphids also lies in the transmission of dangerous viral diseases through them. That is why it is so important to fight these pests.

To combat aphids, we can use ecological methods such as decoctions, extracts and liquid manure from plants, e.g. nettles, tansy or onion husks. Non-chemical methods include spraying with garlic-scented potassium soap or a natural Agrocover preparation.

If it is necessaryquick intervention against aphidsin the home garden or in the cultivation of plants on the balcony, and we have absolutely no preparation for pests, we can use ordinary baking soda, which probably everyone has in the kitchen. Dissolve a teaspoon of soda in 2 liters of water. To increase the effectiveness, add a few more drops of washing-up liquid or 2 ml of gray soap (it will improve the adhesion of the liquid to the leaves of the plants). The whole thing should be shaken and well stirred. We spray plants attacked by aphids with this solution.

There are also many chemical preparations, the so-called insecticides that will help us in the fight against aphids. These are contact preparations, such as: Deltam or Karate Zeon 050 CS. The second group are agents with a systemic effect, protecting the plant against the return of aphids for a long time, such as Mospilan 20 SP, Substral Polysect 005 SL or Substral flowers 2in1 comprehensive protection.The latter also has a fungicidal effect and protects plants against diseases. This makes it a fairly universal solution for gardeners.


Summer in the garden - currant leaves deformed as a result of aphid feeding

Many species of aphids devastate our plants, leaving behind them souvenirs in the form of damaged, deformed leaves (e.g. currant-purgative or apple-plantain aphid). In turn, on the conifers: spruce, larch and fir, they feed by gorges. A good example is the larch-spruce bastion.
The bollardsform characteristic galls (growths on the shoots) in which the larvae feed. Adult aphids cover themselves with white, waxy secretions. Under such cover, they feed and multiply. Deformed shoots with galls dry up because the free flow of plant juices is prevented.
In addition to spraying with systemic insecticides (Mospilan 20 SP, Substral Polysect 005 SL), protection against bugs also involves cutting the galls systematically as soon as they are noticed.
If our plants are affected by gorse or other aphids, it is worth spraying with the Emulpar 940 EC oil preparation next year in the early spring, which will destroy the wintering stages of aphids. It is an ecological treatment, harmless to the environment, whicheffectively eliminates plant pestsbefore they start feeding in the spring. Emulpar 940 EC can also be used against aphids in summer, during the growing season.

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Another pest that we can often meet on our plants isspider mitesSpider mites are mites with a maximum length of 10 mm, yellowish green to orange-red in color. They are commonly referred to as red spiders. The development of these insects is favored by high temperature and dry air.
A symptom of feeding of spider mitesare yellowish-white spots on the leaves, which with time increase and lead to drying and falling leaves. Sometimes the leaves are wrapped in cobwebs.Foraging spider mites contributes to the reduction of flowering and inhibition of plant growth.In orchards, the fruit spider mite is a common problem, attacking mainly apple trees, plum trees and pear trees. Spider mites also attack coniferous trees and shrubs. The spider mite poses the greatest threat to dwarf spruce, among others white spruce of the &39;Conica&39; variety. The pests start feeding on the needles from the bottom of the bush, moving upwards, causing the needles to become mosaic-like, with time to brown and drop of the needles - this effect is visible at the turn of July and August. "
Natural methods such as decoctions, extracts or infusions of onion husks and nettle extract can be used to combat spider mites. The non-chemical preparations recommended for protection against spider mites include the previously mentioned Agrocover, garlic-scented potassium soap and Emulpar 940 EC. Chemical plant protection agents for the control of spider mites are: Karate Zeon 050 CS and Nissorun Strong 250 SC.


Summer in the garden - leaf damaged by spider mites

On the flowers and leaves of our plants we can observethripsThese are small pests, 1-2 mm long, resembling commas. Thrips suck the sap from plant cells, causing irregular spots on the surface of the leaves and flower petals, in which there are also black lumps - the droppings of these pests. The leaves gradually die and dry out. Yellow-brown, corky surfaces may form in places of damage.
The control of thrips is based onspraying with insecticides. From the natural ones, we can choose Emulpar 940 EC, and from the stronger chemicals, the following will work: Karate Zeon 050 CS and Mospilan 20 SP.

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The leaves of our plants are also the food of numerouscaterpillarsSome of them skeletonize the leaves (they eat one skin with the crumb, while the other skin remains intact), others puncture and eat away the tissues leading to pigeons .Fighting caterpillars consists in collecting them and spraying them with chemical preparations Deltam, Karate Gold or Mospilan 20 SP. If we want to fight caterpillars without the use of chemicals, we can reach for ecological novelties available in gardening stores. These are natural preparations Lepinox Plus and NeemAzal T / S. "


Summer in the garden - leaf damage caused by caterpillars feeding on plants

Uninvited and frequent guests in the gardens are snails that unscrupulously eat the leaves of our plants. They can strip the leaves of entire crops, and leave an empty shoot after the most beautiful flowers. How to defend against them? You can sprinkle lime, bas alt flour or wood ash around the beds or individual plants, but be careful not to de-acidify the soil too much, because all of the above-mentioned preparations have an alkaline effect. You can also sprinkle sharp sand or crushed egg shells, which will act as a barrier for snails wandering around the garden.
Traps also give good results.The simplest ones are spread out pieces of damp boards or flat stones where pests hide during the day. We can find them there, catch them and destroy them. A common trap is a jar stuck into the ground into which a small amount of beer is poured. Snails attracted by the smell of beer fall into the jar. There are also special snail traps available in garden shops, designed in such a way as to make it difficult for snails to escape from the trap.

In the past, gardeners used to spread poisonous pellets against slugs. Today, we no longer have to reach for these chemical poisons, because ecological snail pellets are available. Remember that snails can be eaten by birds, hedgehogs or frogs. Thereforeto fight snails in the garden, choose only ecological preparations for snailsbased on iron phosphate. It is a naturally occurring substance in the ground, harmful only to snails.
Examples ofsafe agents for snails, permitted for use in organic farmingare Ślimakol Naturen Substral and Ferramol GR Target Natural. This natural snail pellet does not pose any risk to birds and beneficial insects and provides long-term plant protection against snails (up to 10 days in gardens and up to 14 days in greenhouses and tunnels). It is very easy to apply by sprinkling the granules on the ground between the plants.

Diseases attacking plants in summer

In summer, our plants are also attacked by fungal diseases. The characteristic white or white-gray powdery coating on leaves, shoots and flowers is caused bypowdery mildewThe affected buds develop deformed leaves covered with a profuse white coating that darkens with time. Black surroundings of the fungus are visible on the tarnished spots. Infected shoots are shortened and flowers are diminished.In addition to the decrease in flower quality, powdery mildew causes a strong inhibition of plant growth, which also becomes less resistant to frost.


Summer in the garden - white or white-gray powdery coating on leaves, shoots and flowers of many plants is caused by powdery mildew. The development of the disease is favored by warm and humid weather

Protection against powdery mildewis primarily based on proper plant care. Remember that the affected parts of the plant must be cut and burned. Then spray the entire plant with a fungicide, such as: Topas 100 EC, Signum 33 WG, Scorpion 325 SC. In some crops, we can use this biological preparation Polyversum WP.


Summer in the garden - spots on the leaves, surrounded by a yellow border, can cause gray mold. In the photo, symptoms of this disease visible on peony leaves

Equally often,gray mold appears on the plants in our gardensThe pathogen appears where plants grow in unfavorable conditions - too low air or soil temperature, drying or overflow of the substrate. Mechanical or pest damage is also often the site of disease infection. The symptoms of gray mold are visible on all above-ground organs of the plant. Blots appear at the edges of the leaves, tapering wedge-shaped towards the center of the V-shaped leaf blade. Very often the edges of these spots are surrounded by a yellow border. A gray, dusty coating appears on the affected parts of the plant.
In order to eliminate gray mold, you can spray one of the biopreparations: Biosept Active or Polyversum WP. Chemical preparations can also be used against gray mold: Signum 33 WG or Switch 62,5 WG

Rust spots on the leaves of plants mean thatrust On the underside of the leaves, we can see convex brown lumps. This disease is caused by many types of fungi that attack different plants (and they are not always identical). Scorpion 325 SC and Magnicur Gold will be effective if the plants are infected with rust.


Summer in the garden - rusty spots on the leaves of plants mean that rust has entered our garden. This disease is caused by many types of fungi that attack various plants


In places where there are rusty spots on the leaves from the top side, we can see convex, brown lumps from below

Beautifully blooming roses are also attacked by diseases. When we see dark spots on the leaves, it means that our roses have been attacked byanthracnoseorblack spot of rose leavesBoth diseases are characterized by the appearance of dark spots on the leaves therefore their symptoms are often confused.
The first symptom of anthracnose are wilting and dying shoots appearing here and there. Later, round, red, and later brown or dark brown spots are formed on the upper side of the leaves, clustered side by side or scattered over the entire leaf blade. Leaves turn yellow and fall prematurely.


Summer in the garden - when rose bushes are infected with anthracnose, round, red, and later brown or dark brown spots appear on the upper side of the leaves

In contrast, black spot stains are reddish-brown or purple-black in color. Initially, they are single spots, then more and more numerous, smaller and larger. The spots enlarge and black spots appear on them. In severe infestation, the spots merge together and the entire leaf becomes brown-black. Black spots can also be seen on green shoots. The leaf blades first turn yellow and then turn brown.The disease can lead to complete defoliation, i.e. the plant being stripped of leaves, already in August.
The black spot of rose leaves is combated by spraying with such agents as: Saprol Hobby Long Acting, AE Fungicide Stopper or Scorpion 325 SC. Against anthracnose, the Switch 62.5 WG will be helpful.

Summer is also a time of fruiting for many trees and shrubs, so it's worth taking a look at them. One of the most common cherry diseases is the fine leaf spot in stone trees. The spots on the leaves appear at the end of May or the beginning of June, but the number of spots increases rapidly from mid-June and July. Infected leaves turn yellow and fall prematurely. For control purposes, the fungicide Syllit 65 WP can be used, but remember to apply the spray in a timely manner and observe the grace period.
"Remember thatthe best protection against plant diseases and pests is appropriate prophylaxisAs soon as we notice disturbing symptoms on plants, usually cut out the affected parts and burn them as soon as possible. Before we reach for heavy artillery, i.e. chemical plant protection products, it is worth using preparations of natural origin, which are safer for our he alth and the environment around us. Hand-made preparations also work well: liquid manure, extracts, decoctions or infusions from various plants. Appropriate conditions in which plants grow are also very important, i.e. proper pH and soil permeability, sunlight, humidity and fertilization adjusted to a given species. "
"Finally, I want to mention one more solution that will be of help to many gardeners, and I didn&39;t mention it in this article. Well, we usually want to stick to natural methods of plant protection and we oftendo not know what disease or pest is attacking our plantsIn such cases, Limocide will be very helpful. This is a novelty of 2021. Based on natural ingredients, this formulation fights a wide range of both pests and plant diseases.Every gardener should have a rainy day supply of this preparation. "

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