Building a pond made of foil is the most popular way to build a water reservoir in your own garden. In order for the pond to look aesthetically pleasing and the bottom sealing foil to fulfill its function for many years, all work should be done very carefully and in an appropriate manner. See how to build a plastic pond step by step according to our simple instructions.
Foil water pond - the protruding edges of the foil are masked with stones
How to determine the shape of a pond and calculate how much foil do we need?
The first step we will take will be to choose the right type of elastic lining for the construction of a pond, which will be a kind of waterproof barrier between the soil and the water in the pond. Before buying, determine the shape and size of the tank to be built, as it will determine the selection of the appropriate material for the construction.The desired shape of the tank can be determined by means of a rope attached to pins or a rubber hose. If we have determined the shape, we can proceed to the measurements of the planned tank. First you need to define the maximum tank sizes, i.e. length, width and depth.
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The sizes of the floor covering are defined as follows:
- liner length=max tank length + (2 x max depth) + 15 cm
- lining width=max tank width + (2 x max depth) + 15 cm
Forming the edge of the pond
After determining the shape and size of the tank, and purchasing the appropriate lining, we can proceed to digging the pit. During this time, it is worth placing the purchased carpet away from the tank, in a sunny place, so that it becomes more flexible and easier to work with.
When building a reservoir, it is important to prevent the foil from sticking out along the edge of the pond. The protruding foil does not look aesthetically pleasing and is also exposed to strong sunlight. However, the protrusion of the carpet can be prevented by appropriate shaping the edges of the mesh and masking it with stones, gravel and plants.
When digging a hole, you should immediately form shelves at the edge, on which you can place the plants later.As the structure must be durable and the soil compacted, it is important to plan the arrangement of the shelves in advance and dig a strictly defined shape - so that after excavation, no soil is added to any place or recesses are not patched. It is recommended to create the first shelf at a depth of 15 - 20 cm, and the next one at a depth of 30 - 40 cm. The shelves must be wide enough for plants to be placed on them. It is important that the planes of the shelves do not fall towards the depth, and that their edges should even be turned upwards, as shown in the figure below. This will prevent plants and stones from falling off the shelves. The walls of the pit should be at an angle of about 20 degrees from the vertical, so that in winter the ice will be pushed upwards. The edges of the pit should be leveled to prevent water from overflowing through them.
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Laying the foil at the bottom of the pond
When the pit is ready, remove any roots and sharp stones from inside the pit that might perforate the foil.In order to protect the foil, a special mat (insulation lining) made of polyester or fiberglass is spread at the bottom and edges of the pit. You can also use worn out carpet, or alternatively, sprinkle damp sand with a layer a few centimeters thick. The foil is placed in the trench in such a way that its center touches the bottom and the material overlap remains at the edges. Before starting to fill the pit with water, the edges of the floor covering should be fixed, e.g. by pressing them down with heavy stones. Pour the water slowly so as to allow the foil to adjust to the shape of the bottom. Where necessary, the foil is stretched or loosened. Cut off the excess of the elastic floor covering along the edge in such a way as to leave a 15 cm reserve of foil. The ends of the foil must point upwards to prevent water from escaping from the tank. Cover the foil protruding above the water surface with stones, as shown in the picture. The pebbles should also be placed down the edge, at least up to the height of the first shelf, to hide the foil that can be seen from under the water surface (they should be placed from the bottom up, resting on top of the other).
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Another method of masking the foil is to attach paving slabs or stones along the edge using mortar or turf. The choice of method depends on the visual effect we want to achieve. Loosely placed stones will give a more natural look to the edge, while the slabs fixed on the masonry will make the edge structure more durable.
Planting plants in a pond with foil
On the shelves inside the tank, we can place plants in the pond. Plants can be planted between stones or placed in moving baskets. Baskets for growing aquatic plants are made in the form of perforated containers made of impact-resistant plastic. Many varieties and sizes are available in stores - round, square, and even semicircular for planting coves.First a little gravel is poured into the basket, and then the substrate in which the plants are planted.
However, if we plan to place vigorously growing plants in a larger tank, it is better to do it on a permanent bed or in heavier containers, made e.g. of concrete pipes. This will prevent the plants from being moved by the wind. Walls delimiting the beds, made of bricks or prefabricated elements, should be placed before filling the tank with water. In order not to damage the floor covering, it is recommended to put additional layers under the bedding structure.
"Greening the ponds sealed with foil is not easy, because sand and gravel can slide down the slippery surface to the bottom. Therefore, with the small size of the pond, it is worth supporting a special mat with pockets. Such a mat is made of natural coconut fiber and adapted to be attached to the ground with long pins. The pockets at the bottom are filled with the substrate and plants are planted in it.Then the pot is unfolded along the shore and immersed in the lake. By the way, it will mask the black foil, thanks to which the lake will look more natural.
The text is based on the Great Encyclopedia of Horticulture, Muza SA, Warsaw 1994, pp. 250-251, and Twój Ogrodnik, vol. 11/2003, pp. 12-14.
