The author of the text is MSc. SławomirModykowski
Taking care of young shrubs
In the first year
At the beginning of the cultivation, we cut bushes into two shoots, and remove the rest. The mound of soil, formed immediately after planting, is parted when the shoots have clearly grown.The soil should be removed on cloudy days, so that the delicate, white shoots are not scalded by the sun's rays.We systematically weed the soil around the plants, loosen and, if necessary, water it. It should be remembered that the vines tolerate excess water very badly, especially on heavy soils.
If we used organic fertilizer before planting, in the first year we apply a small amount of ammonium nitrate (20-30 g under the bush), sprinkling it around the plant. In July or August, when loosening the soil, dig out the upper part of the planted plants and cut off the surface roots with a pruner.In November, before the onset of frosts and snowfall, we cover the lower part of the shoot with a mound of soil up to a height of 30 cm.
In the second year
In the next season, in the early spring, when the soil is dry, we spread the mounds, cut both shoots, leaving 1-2 lowest buds on each.The bush trimmed in this way will produce strong and thick growths in the second year, from which we will form the target skeleton.We leave as many of the strongest shoots as we need in the future trunks or permanent arms on the bush.
The number of shoots should be adjusted to the bush's growth strength.Too many of them will make them not as thick and long as we would like. The shoots growing out of the leaf axils, the so-called stepchildren, remove when they reach a length of 5-7 cm.We systematically weed, water and loosen the soil around the plants.
Until the end of July at the latest, we apply ammonium nitrate fertilization at a dose of up to 40 g per bush.From mid-August we stop watering the plants to make them woody before winter.You can then feed them with potassium, using 20-30 g of potassium s alt per bush. Potassium improves the maturation of the winter bed.
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In the fourth year, you can start forming a bush for the so-called vertical cord. Thanks to this cut, the vines will grow, e.g. a pergola. |
In mid-August, we use topping the vines, i.e. breaking off all growing tops. Before winter, we dig the plants.Stems of less durable vines should be tightly wrapped in paper or bent and covered with earth.
Keeping fruiting bushes
Third year
The shrubs bear fruit in the third year after planting. In spring, after the protected shoots are exposed, trim half of them, leaving 8-10 buds on fruiting shoots, and trim the other half as replacement shoots, leaving 2-3 buds.From these buds we take out the skates for the next year.
When left on fruiting shoots, the buds give out branches, on which the inflorescences appear.Stems not producing inflorescences should be removed.Stepchildren growing out of buds also cut out.
In June, the vines produced begin to bloom.Warm and rainless weather is needed for the fruit to set properly.Some varieties require a hormonization treatment for better setting (dipping the inflorescences in 1 ml of gibrescol solution per 10 l of water).After pollination and fertilization in the first half of August, the clusters reach the correct size. We then top up, leaving 6-10 leaves over the last cluster.
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Forming into a permanent rope consists in bending one horizontal shoot. It is from it that fruitful shoots will grow in the following years. |
The grapevine has a tendency to issue the so-called premature shoots, which - if they grow strongly - are pruned over the first or second leaf.In addition, as in previous years, we loosen the soil around the plants, remove weeds, water them and fertilize them. Starting from the third year of cultivation, we use manure every year.
Nothing can replace organic fertilization. However, if we do not have manure or compost, it is worth applying multi-component fertilizers with macro- (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, sulfur) and microelements (copper, zinc, molybdenum, boron, iron) in the fall.
