In March we discover perennials and biennials. We remove the protection gradually, within a few days, so that the plants can harden.We can also discover them right away, but on a cloudy or even rainy day.The harsh spring sun can damage young shoots that have already grown under cover.
Clean the uncovered plants, remove all dead or diseased parts, and feed them with multi-component fertilizer, and then loosen the soil.
At the beginning of spring, before the growth begins, we can multiply by dividing summer and autumn flowering perennials, eg flames, daylilies, funkies, delphiniums, split, rudbeckie.Dig up the plants and divide them into several parts with a knife, pruner or spade, and then plant them into the ground.
We prepare flower beds and flower beds for seasonal plants: fertilize, dig and rake the soil as soon as the soil is thawed.
At the end of the month, we can sow the seeds of the red reseda, sweet pea, sea scabia, marigold, Californianor tricolor wolf.
Hydrangeas form a quite specific group of flowering plants. Garden and saw-cut hydrangeas develop flower ovules in the year preceding flowering.Therefore, in their case, cutting should be reduced to removing faded inflorescences.
Meet the little-known but beautiful varieties of hydrangeas
It happens that severe frosts sometimes damage hydrangea shoots, so the affected parts of the plant should be cut after winter until a he althy, green pair of buds. In the same way, the oak-leaved hydrangea, Hydrangea quercifolia, Hydrangea sargentiana and the shaggy Hydrangea aspera are cared for.
The exception is the new varieties of garden hydrangeas 'Endless Summer' and 'The Bride'.Both bloom in the year of the spring pruning.A strong two-mesh spring cut should also be applied to the shrub hydrangea Hydrangea arborescens and the bouquet hydrangea paniculata. Importantly - such a cut also limits their size.