I bought my first magnolia, which is now over 20 years old, at a gardening exhibition and I had no idea what kind of variety it was. Now I know everything about them and I collect only the finest specimens in my garden.
Magnolias like warm, sunny positions, sheltered from strong winds and acidic (pH 5-6), humus and permeable soil. If it is alkaline or waterlogged, the plant will get sick. I had a sandy garden, so my husband and I started fertilizing 3 dump trucks of high peat, enriching the soil with compost and mineral fertilizers.Later, we dug everything carefully so that the substrate had a uniform structure.
I planted my magnolias in small groups (3-5 varieties each) against the background of the yew trees that form a hedge. A dark green background is best to bring out all the qualities of a flowering shrub. I placed the seedlings according to their habit - the largest by the hedge, i.e. Japanese magnolias with a crown diameter of up to 6 m. ).
All my specimens are grown in containers. This is important because magnolias have an exceptionally sensitive root system. When we buy dug cuttings, there is a risk that the rootlets will be damaged, rot and the plant will die. I start planting in April. I place the magnolia as deep as the pot is high.I gently put it down, cover it with light, fluffy soil and water it with 10 liters of water. I do not trample or oppress, because I could damage the roots.
Care
Magnolias are demanding shrubs. They need to be mulched, fertilized and protected from frost. I use the bark for mulching and cover it with mounds of oak leaves before winter. This prevents the soil and roots from drying out quickly, as these plants have a very shallow root system. In winter, it protects them from frost. I feed my shrubs three times a year - at the end ofMarch, mid-April, and also at the beginning of May. I use Azofoski because it contains all the ingredients a plant needs in spring.