In orchard practice, we distinguish two basic terms for pruning fruit trees.The first, main time of crown formation for the vast majority of species is the period of plant dormancy. They are performed at the end of winter, when the danger of severe frosts is over, and before the juices begin to circulate in the plants.
The second cutting date is when trees are growing and vegetating.This cut is called summer cut because of the season in which it is made, and is often treated as a supplement to a previously made winter cut.However, it is one of the most important care treatments and we should never forget about it, especially in the case of stone trees, such as cherries.These species belong to a small group of fruit trees whose basic pruning date is in summer.
Contents:
- Cutting cherries
- Cutting apple trees
- Tools - balls and secateurs
- Spring and summer pruning
Cutting cherries
Depending on the variety, there are two types of summer cherry crown pruning. Older, but still very popular varieties, e.g. 'Łutówka', grow strongly and tend to create very long shoots. These twigs are usually thin and bend arched after 2-3 years without being cut.This is a disadvantage as the fruit sets only at the ends of the shoots and the entire center of the crown remains empty.
Cutting such trees is mainly about shortening long, overhanging twigs. Newer varieties such as 'Lucyna' or 'North Star' grow much less.Even so, they also require an annual crown adjustment. Cutting this group of varieties involves cutting 2-3 older branches on a tenon to rejuvenate the crown. Cutting cherries is much easier, because we do it while harvesting the fruit.When the cherries are ripe, cut the top of the tree and the side branches from which it is difficult to pick the fruit with a pruner or a saw.This way we will facilitate the harvest and at the same time limit the strong growth of trees.
Cutting apple trees
This important procedure primarily affects the quality of the fruit. It is easy to notice that apples exposed to sunlight are better colored and sweeter.On the other hand, fruits from the center of the shaded crown do not reach the right size and often have a worse taste.To illuminate the ripening fruit, for 3 -4 weeks before the planned harvest, cut some of the shoots. This procedure is easy because we only cut the shoots from the upper part of the crown and only the long shoots commonly known as wolves. Thanks to this simple cut, we will reveal the inside of the crown and give the apples a nice blush.
Tools - balls and secateurs
For cutting the thickest branches and limbs, we use "fox tail" orchard balls.These are tools with a specially bent blade that make cutting easier.For smaller diameter shoots, use two-handed secateurs. For taller trees, secateurs with adjustable handle lengths may be useful.
We will reach even higher when we get a special secateurs mounted on a long pole. It is a very practical tool that allows you to cut shoots growing even at a height of 3-4 m.On the other hand, small, hand-held secateurs will be the best for cutting small twigs and long shoots.
Spring and summer pruning
In the case of prunes, the timing of pruning depends on the time of fruit ripening.Late-fruiting varieties, such as 'Amers', 'Empress', 'President', or 'Elena' ripening in October, are cut in the spring.In turn, early varieties, ripening in July and August, respond much better to summer pruning. The valuable summer varieties include: 'Ruth Gerstetter', which fruits in mid-July, as well as 'Peach', 'Renkloda Ulena', as well as the well-known and appreciated 'Hungarian': 'Early' and 'Wangenheim'.
All mentioned summer varieties are pruned immediately after the fruit harvest is finished.During the treatment, we lower the height of the crown and cut out 2-3 oldest branches from its center.When we thin the crown a bit, we can easily see strong, vertically growing shoots. By cutting some of them, we will inhibit the intensive growth of the entire tree, and also improve the illumination of the crown and the formation of flower buds.
