Orchid cymbidium - varieties, cultivation at home, diseases

Cymbidium orchid(Cymbidium) is a very decorative and long-flowering houseplant with abundant inflorescences.Miniature varieties of cymbidiumfeel good in our apartments and bloom wonderfully. In this article you will learn howgrowing cymbidium at homeand whichcymbidiumvarieties are the most interesting. We also explain what diseases and pests may threaten this plant.

Cymbidium orchid
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Cymbidium orchid - what does it look like and when it blooms?

The genus Cymbidium includes over 50 speciesof plants belonging to the orchid family (Orchidaceae). These orchids are found in a natural state from the Himalayas to Australia. Cymbidium orchids became widespread in Europe thanks to the beautifully flowering hybridCymbidium alexander 'Westonbirt'This Cymbidum variety was bred in the early 20th century in England by breeder X. G. Alexander.

Cymbidiumorchids are grown all over the world and new interspecies hybrids are created every day. As a result of the experiments, a whole group of plants called Cymbidium hybridum was created, the most popular of which are miniature plants, most often grown in our homes.
Cymbidium shoots are erectand reach a height of 50-60 cm. They grow from pseudobulbs surrounded by narrow, sharp, leathery leaves. There are 15-20 flowers on one inflorescence shoot.Cymbidium blooms once a yearand the flowers keep their beauty and freshness for up to 3 months.

Cymbidium orchid - varieties

New varieties of cymbidiumare bred every year , but most of them are sold without a name. Only specialized nurseries and stores offer specific species and varieties of these orchids. Here are some of themore interesting varieties of Cymbidiumorchids available for sale:

• Cymbidium 'Groen Getouft'- green-yellow flowers
• Cymbidium 'Nicole`s Valentine'- red flowers
• Cymbidium 'Wit'- white flowers with pink spots
• Cymbidium 'Dural'- blooms in orange
• Cymbidium 'Beatriz Kunning'- purple-orange inflorescence
• Cymbidium 'Ensichlor'- miniature variety with cream flowers
• Cymbidium 'Marie Bashir'- orange-colored flowers

Cymbidium orchid - growing in a pot

Cymbidiums are extremely light-loving orchidsthat require a place of bright and diffused light all year round. In summer, from mid-May to September, it is advantageous to take the plants outside, sheltering them from direct sun and rain. In autumn, we bring orchids indoors, providing them with as much light as possible.

Cymbidium orchid
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Ambient temperature is extremely important in the cultivation of cymbidiumIn summer, plants prefer temperatures between 22-27 ° C during the day and 3-4 ° C lower at night. This temperature difference between day and night is necessary for the development of flower buds. In autumn, we move the pots to rooms where the temperature should not exceed 14 ° C.Susceptible varieties of Cymbidium react by shedding their budsin too warm rooms.After unfolding, flowers stay the longest at not very high temperatures, 16-21 ° C.
Cymbidium is plantedin a special soil for orchids (pH 4.5-5.5), which is a mixture of pine bark, peat, moss, sand and shredded fern roots. It is important that the orchid substrate is light and permeable.
Cymbidium orchids like relatively high air humidityIn summer they respond well to regular sprinkling, but only with warm rainwater or distilled water. In winter, it is better to refrain from sprinkling, because too high humidity during this period exposes the plants to diseases and rot. It is better to place an air humidifier near the pot.

Cymbidium orchid
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SCymbidiums need frequent watering , but they do not tolerate too moist soil and stagnant water. We water them abundantly all year round, every 3-4 days in summer, and once a week in winter.We avoid watering orchids from above. It is better to immerse the pot halfway in water and then let the excess water drain away.
Regular and abundantfertilization of Cymbidium in spring and summeris necessary for the proper growth and flowering of plants. We can combine fertilization with watering, feeding the cymbidium with specialized fertilizers for orchids once a week. If necessary, foliar feeding can also be used.

Orchid cymbidium - transplanting

The time to replant the cymbidium orchid is the moment when it becomes too large and overgrows the pot, or when it has been growing in the same substrate for 3-4 years.Cymbidiums should be replanted after all flowers have fadedAll tools and pots should be sterilized, because orchids are extremely susceptible to many diseases, especially those with a fungal basis.
Choosinga pot for our orchidwe are looking for one that will accommodate several years of growth, but will not be too spacious.The ideal distance between the roots and the side of the pot is 3 cm, and between the base of the pot and the root ball - 5 cm.Transparent pots are not necessary for the cymbidiumas the roots of these orchids do not need light. However, they can be useful to check the moisture content of the substrate and the condition of the root system. psudobulw. Thanks to this, we get rid of potential sources of infection. The plant forms an extensive root system composed of pseudobulbs. They accumulate water and nutrients, so we should not remove them hastily. At the bottom of the pot, place a drainage layer - gravel, volcanic lava or expanded clay.

Orchid cymbidium in a glass ball

Exotic cymbidium flowers are part of many unusual floristic compositions. The easiest way to make a glass ball ornament is filled with hydrogel granules.We put a single cymbidium flower on them. When the gel balls start to lose their firmness, gently water them.

Orchid cymbium - reproduction

Cymbidium is propagated by divisionEach new seedling should have at least two or three pseudobulbs. Orchid pseudobulbs are quite densely arranged, so be careful when transplanting or dividing. The seedlings are immediately placed in the target containers.
Old, leafless pseudobulbs can also be used for propagation , even if they do not have roots. We separate them from the main plant, put them on damp moss and cover them with a glass container or put them in a mini-greenhouse. Sprinkle regularly until roots are formed.

Cymbidium orchid
Fig. pixabay.com

Orchid cymbidium - errors in cultivation

Often the bad condition of orchids is caused not so much by disease or pests, but also due to errors in cultivation. The most common mistakes result from:

• over-watering orchids- as a result of over-watering, the roots of the plants rot, and the leaves and flowers fall off. You can try to save the spilled plant by removing the damaged tissue and replacing the substrate,
• pplant fertilization- as a result of soil salinity, the orchid roots turn brown, soften and wet. They cannot take up food and water properly. We can try to save a damaged plant by rinsing the roots, removing damaged tissue and transplanting the plant to a new substrate. Until the orchid develops new roots, we feed it only by foliar,
• sun exposure- harsh sunlight can burn the plant. As a result of burns, plant tissues are damaged. Often there is an infection of tissues with fungal diseases. It is best to remove the burned organs and place the plant in a slightly more sheltered place,
• insufficient airing of rooms- stagnant air promotes the growth of viruses, bacteria and fungi. Lack of circulation is especially dangerous after watering and sprinkling plants.

Orchid cymbidium - diseases and pests

Wet bacterial rot of orchids- a disease caused by bacteria Erwinia carotovora ssp. Carotovora - manifests itself with watery, dark spots on the leaves and sometimes also on pseudobulbs. Above the infected tissue, the leaf blade turns yellow and then dies. The unpleasant smell of decaying tissues is characteristic of this orchid disease. When we notice the first symptoms of infection, we remove the diseased organs and cover the cut with powdered charcoal.
Orchid phytophthorosis- disease caused by fungi of the genus Phytophthora. As a result of an attack of phytophthora, dark spots appear at the base of the shoots, gradually affecting the entire shoot. Symptoms of infection also appear on the flowers and the central parts of the leaf blade.When we notice the symptoms of phytophthora on the Cymbidium orchid, first of all, we remove the infected organs, and the whole plants are sprayed and watered 2-4 times every 10-14 days, using alternately Polyversum WP (0.05% concentration) and Biosept Active Spray.

Orchid Fusariosis- is one of the most serious orchid diseases caused by Fusarium Spp. The shoot of the infected plants shows a dark rot with orange spore clusters of the fungus. Lower leaves turn brown and die, shoots break at the base. Diseased plants grow slower and slower until they die completely. Infected orchids must be removed. As a preventive measure, we can spray the neighboring plants several times with Biosept Active Spray.
Orchid rot- this disease caused by the fungus Pythium ultimum manifests itself in a slow growth of the plant. Infected leaves fade and wrinkle, and roots rot. In order to prevent the disease, first of all, you need to carefully water the plants and avoid stagnant water. Remove the diseased plants and spray the rest together with the substrate with Biosept Active at 10-day intervals.

Orchid anthracnosis- this disease, caused by the fungus Colletotrichum gloeosporioides, C. cinctum, is manifested by the appearance of large, watery, light brown spots on the leaves that dry quickly. On the underside of the leaf blade, at the site of infection, the spores of the fungus form characteristic rings. There are slightly recessed, rapidly growing spots on the flower stalks.To prevent this Cymbidium disease, avoid damage to the orchids, water the plants only to the substrate and, if possible, lower the temperature and air humidity in the room. After noticing symptoms of the disease, spray the plants 3-4 times every 7-10 days with Biosept Biosept Active Spray.
Gray orchid mold- is a disease caused by the fungus Botrytis cinerea, manifested by the appearance of brown, watery spots on the seedlings and flowers of orchids.Gray spores of the fungus appear on infected surfaces. Infected organs die, dry or rot. The disease spreads quickly to neighboring plants. In order to prevent gray mold infection, avoid thickening of plants, dampening of leaves and flowers, and high air humidity. After the onset of disease symptoms, spray the orchids 1-2 times with an interval of 10 days, alternately using Polyversum WP (0.05%) or Biosept Active Spray.
Orchid spider mite- the pest feeds on the lower side of the leaves, causing irregular, recessed spots. In damaged areas, on the upper side of the leaf blade, silvery discoloration is visible, which turns brown with time. Heavily infested plants do not bloom or bloom with a long delay, and the flowers are sparse and small.In the cultivation of potted plants to combat spider mites, we can use ready-made preparations Emulpar Spray 750 ml, Agrococer Spray and Substral Multi-Insekt. In case of a strong pest infestation, it is worth reaching for the Karate Spray insecticide.
Mealybugs- they feed on the juices sucked out of plants. These orchid pests are very characteristic because the insect clusters on the underside of the leaf and on the stems resemble tufts of wool. As a result of feeding mealybugs, the leaves of the orchid turn yellow and fall off, and the plant ceases to bloom. When we notice mealybugs on orchids, we spray the plants with Spruzit Spray against AL pests.

Scouts- have a body covered with a flat shield. Their clusters can be seen on the underside of the leaf blade. They suck the sap, weakening the plant, causing deformation of leaves, shoots and flowers. Dry air and low temperatures favor the appearance of these pests. Plants attacked by scales should be sprayed with ready-made preparations of Substral Multi-Insekt, Polysect Long-Acting Hobby or Sanium AL.
Thrips- suck the juices from the leaves (silvery discoloration on the leaves) and flower buds.As the infection develops, the leaves turn yellow and fall, as do flowers. A weakened plant grows worse and worse until it finally dies. To eliminate thrips, spray the orchids with Agrococer Spray or Karate Spray.

MSc Eng. Anna Błaszczak