Philodendronis a genus of plants from southern and central America, to which several hundred species belong. Of these, two are most often grown as pot plants:climbing philodendronandreddening philodendronand their varieties. See what the cultivation looks like andcare for philodendronsin the apartment and how to deal withphilodendron diseasesin our home cultivation, as well as learn a simple way to reproduce these plants.
Reddening Philodendron - Philodendron erubescens
Philodendrons(Philodendron) are plants with quite specific requirements. First of all, unlike many other houseplants, they do not require too much light. With too blue sun exposure, their leaves are easily burned, become dull or yellow, and may deform. The best forgrowing philodendronsare rooms with a window facing east or west, although these plants also cope well with rooms with a north window. When there is not enough light, the shoots stretch out and the leaves are not so intensely colored. Then the philodendron needs to be moved closer to the window.
Another very important element that requires properphilodendron careis ensuring high air humidity. In the home, this can be achieved by frequent sprinkling of leaves (preferably with standing water or rainwater).
The temperature of growing a philodendronshould be between 18 and 25 ° C from spring to autumn and from 15 up to 18 ° C in winter.Care should be taken that the temperature never drops below 12 ° C (for some varieties it may not even drop below 15 ° C). During the growing season, plants should be watered and fertilized regularly. We fertilize every 7-10 days using fertilizer dissolved in water for irrigation. Infertilization of philodendronsmineral fertilizers for plants with green leaves work well, used alternately with organic fertilizers, such as e.g. biohumus.
For the winter period, we stop fertilizing and limitwatering the philodendron , but not letting the soil in the pot dry out. However, you must always remember to maintain high air humidity by frequentsprinkling the philodendron leaves
Replanting the philodendronis necessary every year for young plants, while for older plants it is done every 2-3 years. Plants should be provided with humus and permeable soil with a pH of 5.7 to 6.8.
Philodendron reproductioncan be carried out in early spring (preferably in March) by cutting cuttings containing 2-3 leaves from the shoot with adventitious roots and rooting them in water.They can also be rooting in a light substrate (a mixture of peat and sand) at a temperature of 22-25 ° C (usually requires heating). It is difficult to say which method is better. It is best to prepare a few cuttings and try to root some of them in water, and some in the substrate. Once the cuttings are rooted, which can take up to several weeks, they can be transplanted into a more fertile substrate, suitable for philodendrons.
As they grow, long philodendron shoots will require supports such as bamboo ladders or grids for potted vines . In nature, philodendrons often entwine tree trunks, climbing them upwards. Somevarieties of philodendronalso look good if their stems are allowed to fall down freely.
Climbing philodendron - Philodendron scandens
Among the huge number ofspecies of philodendrons , in pot cultivation, as houseplants, we can find:
Climbing philodendron(Philodendron scandens) - a climber with long, thin shoots with numerous aerial roots. Heart-shaped leaves, dark green, set on long petioles.
Reddening philodendron(Philodendron erubescens) - in this species the leaves are more impressive, arrow-shaped. This philodendron is characterized by a reddish color of shoots and petioles, which makes it an attractive decorative value. Many interesting varieties were obtained from this species, such as 'Burgundy' with red leaves, 'Red Emerald' with red stems and scales covering the leaves, 'Pink Princess' with pink discoloration, or relatively undemandingvariety reddening philodendron'Emerald Queen', which is … completely green!
Philodendron Andrego(Philodendron andreanum) - a species quite similar to the climbing philodendron, except that the leaves are very elongated, and their edges and innervation are light green.
Philodendron diseases - blotch and discoloration on leaves
The vast majority ofproblems in the cultivation of philodendronoccur as a result of our negligence and errors in care. As a result of too little light, low air humidity, flooding of the root system or insufficient fertilization, the tops may die off and the leaves fall off the philodendronAs a result of this disease, the tops of the shoots turn yellow and turn brown with time. Lower leaves turn yellow and fall off, and after removing the plant from the ground, you can see that the roots are rotting. The plant can be saved if we eliminate the causative agents of the disease.
Thedrying of philodendron leavesis also very often observed, with the tops of the leaves turning brown, drying out, and the necrosis gradually spreading over the entire leaves. The cause of thisphilodendron diseaseis uneven watering and allowing the root ball to dry out.The condition of the plant will improve when we start watering it systematically.
Much more trouble can be caused bydiseases of philodendronwith an infectious origin, caused by fungi, viruses or bacteria. If dark brown, water-soaked spots appear on philodendron leaves that grow rapidly, this may indicatephilodendron leaf spot , caused by Colletotrichum gloeosporioides and Myrothecium roridum. In order to stop the further development of thisphilodendron disease , the plant should be watered directly to the ground, the diseased leaves should be cut and the whole plant sprayed several times with fungicides. Spraying should be performed at least 3 times, every 7-10 days, alternating between at least two fungicides, e.g. Brawo 500 SC (0.2% concentration) and Topsin M 500 SC (0.1% concentration).
The rim blotch of the philodendronis manifested by tiny yellow spots on the leaves. The spots have a sunken center and a reddish border.After noticing symptoms, cut the infected parts of the plant and lower the air temperature, especially if it reaches 25 ° C (too high temperature exacerbates the symptoms of the disease). The same fungicides can be used for spraying as for the above-mentioned philodendron leaf spot.Plants can also be attacked by
bacterial philodendron leaf spot , where the leaf spots are round or irregular, watery, dark brown to black with a yellow border around it. Leaves with spots should be cut out and whole plants should be sprayed with Miedzian 50 WP at a concentration of 0.2%.
Philodendron leaf spotmay also be viral (TWSV virus). Then the spots are small but numerous, yellowish, chlorotic. Unfortunately, the infected plant must be discarded.
The most common pests of houseplants on philodendrons include pests from the group of scots - mealybugs and bowls that can be fought with Provado Plus AE.Spraying should be repeated 2-3 times every two weeks. Sometimes thrips are also found. Their presence may be evidenced by extensive, silvery-white spots and deformations of the leaves, and the Fastac 100 EC preparation will help us in the fight against these pests. Spraying must be done twice with an interval of 7-10 days.