Roses have long been well-liked and popular flowering shrubs. They are valued not only for their beautiful flowers, but also for their adaptability. They fit perfectly into naturalistic gardens, arrangements referring to baroque assumptions and even modern assumptions dominated by openwork clumps of ornamental grasses.Both tall and strong bush roses and shorter bedding and ground cover varieties are a perfect match for flowering perennials.Climbing roses cover trusses, openwork columns, pergolas and arches, and also weave into tree crowns.
When planting roses with perennials, remember to keep min.50 cm of space. Plants should be chosen carefully and carefully. Species that grow rapidly can drown out roses quickly, causing them to die quickly. Quite neutral gravel surfaces provide a nice background for roses planted as solitaire.Varieties with yellow or white flowers create a light and sunny aura.In contrast, bright pink and purple shades of flowers attract our eyes with great power.
The gravel around the roses is scattered in a thin, surface layer, because the bushes need clay soil, rich in humus and nutrients.Completely pebble bed cover does not suit red-flowered roses.The easily warming surface heats the air around the shrubs, which causes the flower petals to fade quickly. This is how most varieties react.
The exception is a few roses, for example the small bush variety 'Sorrento'. The fact that among small bush roses there are varieties that can withstand heat well, we can easily find out by looking more closely at the rose lawn in the streets. Today, roses that bloom only once a season are a bit less popular, but valuable for garden arrangements.Climbing or bedding shrubs covered with lush flowers always arouse genuine admiration.
Roses on the terrace and balcony
Roses have long been grown in containers on balconies and terraces. Due to the unique conditions, they require good care and careful care. We plant them in tall containers because they have long roots. During the season, we do not regret water, but we quickly pour away the excess water from the stand.We supply roses or long-acting fertilizer with compost in the spring or in the season.
Latest he althy rose varieties with fragrant flowers
All the varieties shown here repeat flowering.They are strong and he althy, which was confirmed by the German ADR certificate.
- The 'Camelot' climbing rose has flowers of 5-10 cm in diameter with a citrus scent.It sprouts new shoots with leaves from the roots. It reaches a height of 2.5-3 m.
- The 'Charisma' large-flowered rose is 80 cm high. Flowers about 10 cm in diameter are durable and stay fresh in a vase for a long time after cutting.
- The 'Pink Paradise' large-flowered rose begins to bloom at the end of May.It has a bushy habit and reaches a height of 80 cm.
- The 'Novalis' bedding rose delights with its nostalgic, lavender, large flowers up to 10 cm in diameter. It grows to a height of 80 cm.
- The 'Sabrina' climbing rose boasts flowers 6-8 cm in diameter. Reaches a height of 2-2.5 m.
Diseases attacking our roses
One of the most common fungal diseases in rose hips is the mildew of rose Sphaerotheca pannossa. Its first symptoms usually appear in mid-May or early June and initially appear on young leaves in the form of a white coating that spreads very quickly to the leaf blade.Infected leaves are deformed and their edges slightly curl downwards. At the end of summer, white mycelium can also be observed on the shoots and on flower petals.
Affected flowers die quickly and are no longer decorative. High intensity of symptoms may cause significant inhibition of flowering and leaf fall. Infested bushes are more likely to freeze in winter.Protection of roses against powdery mildew consists in cutting out infected shoots and removing fallen leaves.Chemical protection begins at the end of May, using, for example, Polyram 70 WP or Topsin M 500 SC.
The same preparations can be used at the turn of May and June against rose black spot. Symptoms of this disease do not appear until the end of summer in the form of black spots and yellowing falling leaves.Initially, the symptoms are visible on the leaves as light brown, then blackening spots.They are round, irregular and often blend together. Leaf tissues turn yellow around the spots. Heavily infested leaves fall. Symptoms also appear on the shoots in the form of reddish, slightly raised discoloration.
Before autumn, the shrub protects new leaves, which makes the plant frost easier in winter. The fungus hibernates on fallen leaves and infected shoots . The optimal temperature for the development of the disease is 15-27 ° C. Remove fallen leaves and cut out affected shoots.
