Decorative garden: dividing perennials
The ending growing season should be used for cleaning perennial plantings. Particular attention should be paid to plants that started to show signs of aging during the season.A way to rejuvenate perennials is to divide plants.In some, the so-called short-lived species, such as coastal viscera or great jaster, signs of aging can be observed after 2-3 years of cultivation.
Most species require rejuvenation after 4-6 years, but some, e.g.monkshood or baptisia can grow in one place for many years without losing their ornamental value. One of the best dates for dividing perennials is the turn of September and October.Then most perennials begin to lose the aerial part. We dig up the carps, clean them from soil and dead tissues, and then divide them into smaller parts.Their number depends on the size of the carp and our needs, usually from 2 to 8-10 young plants are obtained from one carp. Smaller carps are torn or cut open with a knife, while larger ones are best separated with a strong spade. After dividing, the carp fragments are planted in a permanent place, at the same depth at which they previously grew.
The planting density depends on the growth rate of the species and how quickly we want to achieve a decorative effect and how long we will grow plants in this place.Too densely planted perennials will need to be separated again sooner.Regardless of the species, they should always be planted in well-prepared soil, with a good structure (too heavy loosened with sand, too light reinforced with clay), with the addition of manure or compost.Good soil preparation before planting is a basic condition for the good development of perennials and other plants.
Balconies and terraces in September
We supply annual plants
Until the end of the month, we regularly water and supplement with multi-component fertilizers all annual plants that are still blooming beautifully, e.g. continuously flowering begonia, petunia, sage, sage, verbena. However, we do not feed perennial plants that we are going to store over the winter, e.g. pelargonium, fuchsia, Datura, clam, Lycanthus Rantonnetta (blue nightshade), so that they can enter the dormant period more easily.We still water them regularly, though, due to colder days, much less than we did before.
Protection of plants against diseases
We protect plants against fungal diseases, because cool mornings and evenings favor the development of, for example, gray mold and mildew. After the first symptoms of infection appear, the plants should be sprayed with an appropriate chemical agent (they are available in small packages) as soon as possible according to the instructions on the leaflet.
Prune the shoots
At the end of the month, we significantly trim the shoots of plants that will winter indoors. This applies, for example, to geraniums, fuchsia, nightshade, tibuchin, silvering, datura (brugmansji), lead and others.
Trees and shrubs: lilacs with colorful leaves
Elderberry Sambucus nigra is a popular shrub whose natural range covers Europe, North Africa, the Caucasus, Asia Minor and Poland. It grows best in positions that are very rich in nutrients.It is considered the so-called nitrogen index, which shows the soil abundance in this very important nutrient.It has many garden varieties, but the most popular are those with colorful leaves.
The 'Aurea' varieties with creamy-white star-shaped flowers and intensely golden-yellow leaves and 'Black Beauty' with burgundy-purple leaves and pink flowers are very impressive in the gardens. Both are perfect for color combinations, and when planted next to each other, they wonderfully contrast the yellow and purple color of their leaves.Elderberry grows best in fertile and moist soils, which contain a lot of nitrogen and calcium.
Orchard: excellent fruit from conductor crowns
In the past, gardens were dominated by fruit trees with spreading crowns, under which you could find shelter from rain or sun.Currently, however, when trees do not grow as strongly as they used to, the shape of their crowns has changed as well.The cauldron or cup crowns are forgotten. Today, the most recommended crown for apple, pear and other species is the spindle crown with one guide.
A characteristic feature of this form of the crown is a more or less slender shape.The shape of the tree should then resemble a cone or a Christmas tree. The biggest advantage of such a crown is its small footprint.However, despite the small size of this crown, the obtained crops are of very high quality.
Due to the fact that the crown is narrow at the top and wide at the bottom, the sun reaches all fruits and the crops are grown and properly coloredThe fruits are usually exposed to sunlight they contain more sugars and are therefore sweeter than the fruit of trees that do not reach the sun. In natural crowns with a more spherical shape, a lot of fruit is located in the middle of the shaded crown, which makes them green, sour and not very tasty even when ripe.
Vegetable: we plant rhubarb in autumn
Few people know that rhubarb can be planted both in spring and autumn, but the latter term is more favorable.Plants planted in autumn take root better, start spring vegetation earlier and in the first year they are in much better condition than plants planted in spring. The edible part of the rhubarb is the petioles, which in the case of autumn planting can already be eaten in April.
They are an invaluable source of vitamins, especially when there is a shortage of spring vegetables. The presence of acids (i.e. apple and citric) has a positive effect on your well-being and has a refreshing effect. Rhubarb stalks are also a great source of vitamin C. Rhubarb does not have high climate and soil requirements.
Starts vegetation as soon as the snow melts and the soil thaws to a depth of 5 cm. Rhubarb, on the other hand, requires a lot of water as it is sensitive to periodic droughts.When it comes to fertilization, it is practically not necessary in home cultivation, in gardens and allotments.Fertilization with manure in the fall before planting into beds is beneficial.
Then, in the following years of cultivation, manure or other organic fertilizer (e.g. compost) can be applied every three years, scattering it in the inter-rows.The best method of growing rhubarb is vegetative propagation with carp (that is, the underground part of the plant). The root of 4-6-year-old plants is most suitable for the preparation of seedlings.The stumps should be dug up from the soil and then separated so that each part has at least 1 bud and 1 to 3 roots.
The seedlings prepared in this way are not planted in the soil until the next day, when the surfaces of the cuts are dry - this way we will reduce the risk of infection by pathogens. Let's not forget that rhubarb should be planted deeply so that the apical buds are 2-3 cm deep. After planting, press the soil around the seedling. Typical row spacing is 1.2x1.2 m.
