Decorative garden: autumn cleaning in perennials
In October, autumn perennials and repeated flowering fade, in November only chrysanthemums can resist autumn frosts. So it's time to start the autumn cleanup.First, let's cut the above-ground parts of non-evergreen perennials, because their dead parts may develop pathogenic fungi or bacteria.Therefore, the cut parts must be burned.
Then cover the free (weeded) places between perennials with compost, high peat, shredded bark or manure (perennials with high nutritional requirements).We leave those inflorescences that can decorate our garden in winter, e.g. brilliant rudbeckia, Przewalski's tongue, purple coneflower, sedum, yarrow, virginia flower, spherical fern, flat leafed anemone, Japanese anemone, woodworm.
We also leave inflorescences of ornamental grasses, especially tall miscanthus. Some perennials, including grasses, are left without pruning for the winter, because then they winter better.Stems and leaves create a natural, warm soil covering, preventing deep freezing of the ground.In addition, they accumulate on them snow, perfectly protects the soil, buds and roots of wintering plants.
Balconies and terraces: prepare plants for winter
In autumn, many frost-sensitive plants are transferred to cool rooms for winter.In such conditions, e.g. citruses, myrtles, oleanders, brugmans, geraniums, fuchsia and hibiscus.Most of them do not like sub-zero temperatures, so they should be indoors before the upcoming frosts.Plants are trimmed prior to transfer to winter quarters to reduce transpiration, allow the shoots better access to light and reduce the risk of infestation by diseases and pests.
First we remove sick and weak shoots. We shorten the rest by 1/3. You can also remove too dense shoots. For most species, the optimal storage temperature is 5-12 ° C.Leaves shedding plants may hibernate in dark rooms, but species that are always green require a lit room.
Trees and shrubs in October
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We dig the soil with compost or manure for new beds for shrubs, shrubs, trees and creepers set up in spring. We do not level the soil, but leave it in the so-called sharp furrow.
Regularly irrigate
We plant trees and shrubs with a bare root system, remembering to protect the roots from drying out.After planting, do not forget to systematically water 10 liters of water every few days for a single tree or bush.
Before wintering
During dry autumn, we water trees and shrubs, especially evergreen shrubs, to prepare them for wintering.
We use phosphorus and potassium fertilizers
In autumn, we can apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers at a dose of 20 grams per 1m².
Orchard: autumn fertilization
Autumn is the perfect time to replenish the deficiencies of the most important nutrients in the soil.During this period, we no longer fertilize the plants with nitrogen, so that they would finish their growth naturally and their tissues would have lignified before the upcoming winter.
The time after the end of vegetation is mainly used for fertilization with two components: potassium and phosphorus.These are slow-moving components in the soil, so it's best to deliver them before planting the plants.However, you should not forget about fertilizing older trees and shrubs with potassium and phosphorus.Fertilization performed in autumn has the advantage that fertilizers will gradually move down the soil profile with rainfall.
Also in winter, water from melting snow will support the penetration of macroelements into deeper layers.It will be a long process, however, as fertilizers spread over the soil surface will reach the main root mass for many months.
Vegetable: seed storage
The seed material left over from this year's purchases or harvested from cultivated vegetables is suitable for storage. Good storage is determined by the high germination capacity, expressed as a percentage, and the low moisture content of the seeds.In the case of purchased seeds, it is enough to check the expiry date or germination capacity specified by the manufacturer.
For harvested seeds, we perform a test by sowing 50 or 100 seeds on moist lignin. We count the germinated seeds. For 100 seeds, their number corresponds to the percentage germination capacity (e.g. 85 pcs.=85%), in the case of 50 seeds, the result is multiplied by 2.If the obtained result is lower than 70%, such seeds should not be stored, because their germination capacity will be further reduced.It depends on the species, age and he alth of the seed. Pathogenic fungi inhabiting the seed material can infect he althy material and infect plants obtained from it.
Dry the harvested seed, keeping it in an airy room at a temperature of 20-30 ° C. Choose a dry and cold room with a temperature from -5 ° C to 5 ° C for storage.Dressed or encrusted seeds are stored for a year, and without plant protection products for 2 to 8 years.
