Q:I have a problem with oleander - for the second year in a row flower buds are not blooming at all. I am asking for advice on what to do to make the plant bloom. The first summer, the oleander was blooming, but it was standing in a very sunny place, and the leaves turned brown. Now I put it in the garden in less sunlight.
O:The stand for oleander should be as hot and sunny as possible.He likes the place under the white wall on the south side and his feet are wet and sheltered from the rain.Oleander does not like rain, high humidity or spraying (does not bloom).
As it can survive temperatures down to -5 ° C, in mild climates, it can be put in the garden as early as the end of April, and in autumn it can be moved indoors as late as possible, especially after the first frosts a few more warm weeks.The best place for wintering is a bright room with a constant supply of fresh air and a temperature of approx. 4-8 ° C.
Before bringing the plant inside, trim the bare and too long shoots. Do not remove flower shoots that are still forming in the fall. Starting from March, the plant should be given a warmer room, which promotes better flowering.Do not allow the root ball to dry out during wintering.From the beginning of shoot growth until early autumn, water copiously or very abundantly (depending on the weather) with room temperature stagnant water, which promotes abundant flowering.
Pots and containers should be placed on large bases so that you can water the plant from below, even every day in hot weather. Water more sparingly from mid-August so that the shoots can become lignified.Fertilize intensively from the beginning of growth every week until mid-August, then stop.
