Buying roses
Roses should not be bought hastily, but choose calmly and thoughtfully in a nursery of roses, plants or gardening. Before we decide on the selected specimens, it is necessary to find out the height of the rose and its habit. Only in this way will we select the best varieties for different positions and growing conditions.
In the basic period of planting roses, that is in March and October, mainly bare-root cuttings are sold. Grade A roses have a well-developed root system and at least three main shoots, while Grade B roses should have at least two shoots.Sometimes they are covered with a waxy layer that should not be removed as it protects the shoots from drying out and will fall off after a while. Shoots should be green, hard and shiny with a well-developed root system.
He althy roots ensure good plant growth. The thinnest roots are very delicate and should not dry out before planting. Roots are better protected in seedlings with a root ball. They are covered with a loose layer of earth or moss and a bag made of mesh or thick paper.Roses can be planted in a casing, which will decompose in the ground.
Planting roses correctly
Shoots of roses with bare roots or a root ball should be shortened to approx. 20 cm. We check the bare roots and remove the damaged and dead fragments. Soak the rose seedlings in water for about 4-5 hours. We dig a hole for the roots.It should be 40 cm wide and the same depth to accommodate upright roots.At the bottom we build a small cone around which we spread the roots. If the soil tends to retain moisture, arrange a gravel drainage at the bottom of the hole.
A little hornmeal or long-acting fertilizer will support the roses in the initial period after planting. Freshly planted plants should never be fed with fast-acting mineral fertilizer. Place the rose in the prepared well. To protect against frost, the vaccination site should be 5 cm below the ground.Roots should not bend at the bottom of the hole.
Add some compost to the dug soil and fill the hole with this mixture. All the time, we carefully shake the bush so that the earth gets between the roots and carefully fills the voids.
Thoroughly tap the surface around the rose.The roses are dug to a height of about 15 cm, both when planting them in autumn and in spring.This will protect them from frost and frost. In spring, after a few weeks, we spread the mounds. Form a shaft around the rose, and then pour the water. Young roses need a lot of moisture, so the soil around them should not dry out in the following weeks.
When, how and with what to fertilize roses
Flower queens, especially the flower pots, need large amounts of nutrients. In spring, when the plants start to sprout, we apply a long-acting mineral fertilizer.Fertilize the roses with the second dose right after the first flowering in June.Nitrogen fertilizer should be used only until the end of June, so that the shoots are stronger and lignified before winter.
Acute deficiencies can be quickly compensated for with a quick-acting foliar mineral fertilizer.Young plants should not be fed with it. Organic fertilizers, such as horn meal, manure, compost, have a long effect and are used at the end of autumn and spring.
Self grafting of roses
Noble varieties of roses, although they bloom beautifully, are susceptible to diseases as well as unfavorable weather conditions.To remedy this, they are reproduced by grafting on a rootstock of wild rose, which is much more tolerant and copes well in our climate.This treatment is carried out in summer, on a rainless day, but not in dry weather.If the period prior to inoculation was very dry, the stocks should be watered abundantly.
1. We choose a faded, fully mature, he althy and strong rose shoot, from the center of which we cut the so-called scion, i.e. a dozen centimeter fragment of the shoot with a few buds.We remove all spikes and leaves from the shoot.Remember to use clean tools so as not to infect the bushes with fungal or bacterial diseases!
2. and 3. Select the strongest bud (eye) from the middle part of the scion. About 1-1.5 cm above it, cut the shoot flat with the blade pointing downwards in such a way as to cut off the green skin and part of the wood.The cut is finished approximately 1.5 cm below the stitch. In this way, we obtain a plate with a length of approx.3 cm. Discard the woody part.
4. Gently make a T-shaped incision on a wild rose shoot, low above the ground.
5. Fold the cut bark aside and slide the cut bud behind it along with the bark shield so that it points upwards. We place it completely under the bark, leaving only the tip of the tail and the eye outside. Shorten the upper, protruding part of the shield.
6. Wrap the vaccination site tightly with raffia or a strip of foil. We remove the protective bond after four weeks.If the protruding petiole is still green, it means that the scion has stuck.
7. In the spring of the following year, a new bud will appear. Then we cut the shoots of the rootstock, i.e. the wild rose, just above the grafting site, so that the young bud of the noble variety could develop freely.
8. By summer, new shoots will grow from it.The tops of the earliest ones are pinched, when they will have 3-4 leaves.
9. If everything went well, the first flowers will appear in the same year.
Basics of rose rejuvenation
Leading sticky roses over the fence
Climbing roses can be used to create very effective forms. It is enough to prepare appropriate structures for them: pergolas, trellises, trusses at the walls of buildings and gazebos, arches or simply use the existing fences, and they will quickly become covered with a thick mass of flowers and leaves.The constructions where shrubs will be planted will allow for slanting and even horizontal shoots, which is conducive to abundant flowering of roses.
Clinging roses do not form clinging organs, nor do they get wrapped with shoots, whiskers or petioles around slats, rods or wires, so they must be carefully attached to them. We use materials that do not damage the bark or wood of the shoots.Remember not to tie the shoots too tightly, keep the clearance between them and the elements of the structure, and check the binding places carefully every year.
1. Clips (clasps) for attaching plants, very practical and convenient clips, ideal for quickly and easily attaching plants to supports. They are unobtrusive because they are made of green plastic.
2. Garden wire covered with a plastic sheath, resistant to weather conditions.
3. Flexible plant binding to supports, durable throughout the season.
4. A durable cord in a neutral color, made of natural fibers.
5. Plastic-coated, flat garden wire that does not cause wounds on the bark of plants.
6. The adjustable plant tie ("quick coupler") is extremely durable and easy to use.
Forms of roses on sale
Roses in the so-called containers are available for sale all summer. They often bloom already, which makes it much easier to choose a variety.
Roses with a root ball can be planted together with a packaging made of paper or mesh . This packaging will decompose in the ground over time.
Plants with bare roots are purchased only during the basic planting period in spring or autumn.Since the roots are delicate and sensitive, these plants should be planted quickly.
